HEDGEHOG MOUNTAIN
ELEVATION: 2532 ft./772 m
LOCATION: Sandwich Range, Town of Albany
USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Mount Chocorua
GEOGRAPHY: Hedgehog Mtn. is a low, ledgy
peak on the NE side of Mt. Passaconaway, separated from its towering
4043-ft. neighbor by a 2060-ft. col. It’s one of the most interesting small
mountains in the Whites, with three viewpoints to visit along a five-mile loop
trail. This bristling little peak is covered with dark spruces and presents
granite cliffs on its S face, looking towards Mt. Passaconaway. From Passaconaway’s
N outlook, one can study the bright, open ledges of Hedgehog close at hand.
Hedgehog divides the valley of Oliverian Brook on the E, with the N ridges of Mt Paugus beyond, from that of Downes
Brook on the W, beyond which is Potash Mtn. at the end of the long N ridge of
East Sleeper. To the N is the Albany Intervale, the broad valley of the Swift River. Hedgehog’s ridgecrest rises S from the Albany Intervale to
the summit, passing over the NE-facing Allen’s Ledge (c. 1900 ft.), which
offers wide views E and NE. Just S of
Allen’s Ledge is a shallow ravine on the E side of the mountain drained by the
headwaters of White Brook.
The main summit drops off in S-facing cliffs,
and ledges around the top provide good views NW and SE. To the E of the main summit
is a lower knob (2340 ft.) sometimes called “Little Hedgehog” that bears the
East Ledges, the largest expanse of open rock on the mountain, with more cliffs
dropping to the S. This area provides excellent views
S and E. On the NE side of the E knob is a triangular slab of granite (off-trail)
that can be seen from distant viewpoints.
NOMENCLATURE
Ranks of spruces along its crest give Hedgehog a
porcupine-like appearance when viewed from the Albany Intervale, accounting for
the mountain’s name. Another Hedgehog, a SE spur of Passaconaway in the Wonalancet Range, is located just 3 mi. to the S,
hence the mountain described here is sometimes referred to as the “Albany
Hedgehog.”
Allen’s Ledge is
named after Jack Allen, a hunter, trapper, guide and crusty character who
frequented the Albany Intervale in the late 1800s and early 1900s. According to
Charles Edward Beals, Jr., writing in Passaconaway in the White Mountains,
when someone asked Allen what the rocks up on the side of Hedgehog were, he
replied, “Them are called Allen’s Ledge!”
The UNH Trail is
named after a forestry camp that was once operated by the University of New Hampshire in the Albany Intervale to the N of
Hedgehog.
HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS
1790s: First settlers clear land in Albany
Intervale N of Hedgehog.
1800: Austin George and family homestead
in intervale; family abandons home in 1815.
1824: Amzi
Russell family moves into abandoned George house.
1837: First road is laid out from Conway into Albany Intervale, ending at
settlement near N base of Hedgehog. Thomas H. Shackford
family is among prominent residents.
ca. 1840: Lumbermen try driving logs down
rock-strewn Swift River, but effort is soon abandoned.
Late 1860s: James M. Shackford
(son of Thomas) enlarges house to take in summer boarders; inn is called
“Passaconaway House” or “Shackford’s.” Later owners
continue to operate hostelry. President Grover Cleveland is frequent guest.
1873: Jack Allen, Civil War veteran, moves
into intervale and becomes legendary local character
as guide, hunter, angler, trapper and teller of tales.
1891: Thomas Colbath,
husband of Ruth Colbath, unexpectedly leaves their
house in intervale to E of Hedgehog. For 39 years she
lights lantern each night in window hoping for his return – one of most
poignant tales of region. He does return in 1933 – three years after Ruth’s
death. Russell-Colbath House is now maintained as
historic site by USFS.
1906-1916: Swift River Railroad logging operation harvests
vast quantities of timber in Albany Intervale; main line of RR runs along N base of Hedgehog (part
of this is used by lower section of today’s UNH Trail). Spur line runs a mile
up Oliverian Brook valley to E of Hedgehog. Lumber
roads are extended up Downes Brook valley to W. At
its height, operation employs over 1500 workers with two school houses, post
office and several boarding houses. At some point Passaconaway post office is
featured as smallest in world in “Ripley’s Believe It or Not.”
1912: Fire in Oliverian
Brook valley burns slopes between Hedgehog Mtn., Mt. Passaconaway and Mt. Paugus. Also in this year, Jack Allen dies.
1916: Charles Edward Beals,
Jr. describes Hedgehog, a “bristling, hump-backed hill,” in Passaconaway in the White Mountains, his
narrative about the Albany Intervale. He
writes that “…from Square Ledge its scrawny cliffs present an appearance both
wild and terrible,” while from a vantage in the valley “with one end high in
the air and the other lost in obscurity, [it] resembles a sinking ship with bow
high in the air, while the stern is submerged beneath the waves.” He notes that
lumbermen have stripped much of the mountain’s forest cover and that the summit
is seldom visited. The short trek to Allen’s Ledge is highly recommended,
however, for with its wide views it “gives you more for your money than any
other climb.”
1916: 2nd edition of AMC White Mountain Guide notes that
former trail up Hedgehog has been destroyed by lumbering; bushwhack route to
summit is described. About this time USFS acquires much of land in Passaconaway
area.
1916: Passaconaway House burns; the next
year it is replaced by new building, Swift River Inn.
1920: AMC Guide reports
that trail up Hedgehog has been restored, ascends to
summit via Allen’s Ledge. Through 1920s and 1930s trail is maintained by local
Passaconaway Mountain Club (PMC).
1925: PMC has cut new section of trail
creating loop over summit. New route ascends to col between main and east
peaks, with spur out to East Ledges, then climbs to summit.
1928: Two groups of AMC climbers establish
first rock climbing routes on East Ledges. One group also makes climb of summit
cliff.
1940: Trails to Hedgehog now maintained by
WMNF. University of New Hampshire has established forestry school in
valley at N base of mountain, using land donated to school after closing of
Swift River Inn.
1945: Hedgehog trails abandoned by WMNF.
Peak remains trailless until early 1960s.
1962: Trails are cleared to summit and to
East Ledges, but link between them remains abandoned, having not been cleared
since 1938 hurricane.
1971: Tall spruce from Clark L. Stevens
Forest just N of Hedgehog is cut by USFS and sent to Washington, DC as
Christmas tree for White House lawn.
Early 1970s: WMNF re-opens section between summit
and East Ledges, creating loop now called UNH Trail.
Late 1970s: North Conway-based climbers put up
several new rock climbing routes on East Ledges.
Early 1990s: New hiker parking lot is created for
UNH, Mount Potash and Downes Brook Trails. Network of X-C ski trails is opened
in flat area at N base of Hedgehog.
2006: Sandwich Range Wilderness is expanded, bringing
boundary N to southern slopes of Hedgehog.
TRAIL APPROACHES
NORTH APPROACHES from Kancamagus Highway (NH 112)
UNH Trail
To main summit and return via West Loop: 3.8 mi. round trip, 1300-ft. elevation gain
Loop over summit with ascent via East
Loop and East Ledges, descent via West Loop: 4.8 mi.
loop, 1450-ft. elevation gain
TRAILHEAD (1250 ft.): UNH Trail starts from large hiker’s
parking lot for UNH, Mount Potash and Downes Brook Trails, located at end of short side road
off S side of Kancamagus Highway across from Passaconaway Campground.
This is 2 mi. W of jct. with Bear Notch Rd.
The UNH Trail makes a
4.8 mi. loop over Hedgehog, making it possible to visit Allen’s Ledge and the
main summit, out-and-back, via the West Loop, or to include the scenic East Ledges via the East Loop. Both options are described below.
To main summit and return via West Loop
From parking area, walk short distance S on gravel road and
turn L up bank at sign for UNH Trail, which follows needle-carpeted corridor on
level through beautiful white pines along grade of old Swift River logging railroad. At 0.2 mi. turn R
off grade onto West Loop (East
Loop
continues ahead on grade). Trail is nearly level to jct. R with X-C ski trail
at 0.3 mi., then climbs at easy, then moderate grade on
wide path through hardwoods and mixed woods. At 0.8 mi. climb onto lovely
spruce and hemlock-wooded hogback, then drop left to cross small streambed and
ascend rocky, rooty section through more hemlock and
spruce, angling up to L. At 1.1 mi./1850 ft. trail makes sharp turn to R; here root-strewn
side trail continues steeply ahead up slope to base of massive outcrop, then turns
L and scrambles up to top of Allen’s Ledge, where there is good ledgy perch with view NE. Most open views are found by
descending carefully 30 yds. down sloping ledge ramp
to level clifftop perch at bottom, with wide view N
and E over Albany Intervale to surrounding mountains. Use caution if wet or
icy. Allen’s Ledge makes good objective for shorter hike – 2.2 mi. round trip,
650-ft. elevation gain.
Main trail bears R at
this jct., then L, meanders up across shoulder, passes side path L up to ledge
with view E to Mt. Chocorua. Trail steepens
at ca. 2100 ft., climbing steadily to S through deep spruce forest, with
occasional steeper pitches and rooty, rocky footing
in places. Higher up views begin to appear through trees to R, looking W over Downes Brook valley to Tripyramids and Potash Mtn.; one viewpoint just to R of trail at
c. 2300 ft. provides more open vista in this direction. As grade eases
approaching summit, trail passes through semi-open scrubby area with interesting
views back to NW and N (best viewed on descent), with Mt. Carrigain,
Nancy Range, Mt. Washington, Wildcats and Carters prominent in distance and Green’s
Cliff, Church Pond and Mt. Tremont seen down in Albany Intervale. At top of
open area trail re-enters woods and climbs easily to flat summit at 1.9
mi./2532 ft. Short side path leads R to ledge with stand-up views to peaks W
and NW; just beyond, ledge on L offers vistas S to Mt. Passaconaway and SE to Mts. Paugus and Chocorua. Beyond, UNH Trail soon
begins ledgy, winding descent to SE, described below
in reverse direction. Additional views to W are found on ledge to R of trail a
short distance beyond summit, where trail makes L turn.
Ascent via East Loop and East Ledges
From trailhead, follow UNH Trail to jct. with West Loop at 0.2 mi., as described above. From
here continue straight (E) on East Loop along railroad grade. At 0.4 mi. turn R off grade at sign as
X-C ski trail continues ahead. Trail crosses washed-out area and climbs easily,
then moderately through hemlocks and hardwoods along NE slope of mountain,
passing below Allen’s Ledge. After steeper pitch, swing R over spruce-clad
knoll and descend slightly to cross White Brook, here a small headwater stream,
at 1.3 mi./1780 ft. Ascend through ice-damaged
hardwoods, then through bouldery area. Line of wooded
ledges appears up on R. Trail then makes three switchbacks up through wild,
mossy spruce forest. Third switchback is gently descending traverse. Drop over
small ledge step and turn R at 1.8 mi. with vista L over Albany Intervale to the
Wildcats and Carters, Bear Mtn., Table Mtn. and the Moat Range. Trail now climbs steadily S to E
end of East Ledges, reached at 2.0 mi./2300 ft. From
first ledges there are views L to Moats. Trail bears R here for short scramble
up ledges to spacious flat perches atop main S-facing cliffs. Stay back from
edge and use caution in wet or icy conditions. Here there are exceptional views
up to looming Mt. Passaconaway and across broad valley of Oliverian Brook to Passaconaway’s
SE spurs, Paugus Pass and Mts. Paugus and Chocorua. This sunny perch is
best lunch spot on mountain, and makes fine out-and-back trip by itself – 4.0
mi. round trip, 1100-ft. elevation gain.
Beyond these ledges
trail dips into woods, passes ledge with partial view W to South and Middle
Tripyramid, and crosses head of gully. Here side trail R leads to flat open
ledge with partial view N to Mt. Carrigain, Twin Range and Nancy Range and W up to cliffs of Hedgehog summit.
Main trail bears L to skirt open clifftop (to L) on
narrow granite shelf(use caution) and soon emerges on broad ledges with more
good views S, unique look W to Sleepers and South Tripyramid to R of
Passaconaway, and close-in view up to Hedgehog summit cliffs. Drop down one
last set of ledges into woods (follow blazes carefully), descend to low spot,
then traverse through wild, bouldery spruce forest,
with minor ups and downs. From low point at c. 2200 ft., trail begins working
up along S slope of main summit, soon swinging to R (N) through more boulders. Higher up you veer SE for fairly steep,
winding climb through rough, ledgy terrain with a
couple of minor scrambles. Higher up trail emerges on ledges with views to S and
SE. It turns L and climbs partway up knobby line of ledges, dips L into woods,
then ascends steeply to regain ledges. It continues winding up through woods
and over ledges; near top it makes R turn with ledge to L of trail offering
view W over Downes Brook valley to Tripyramids and
out to NW, and soon gains ledge near summit of Hedgehog with view S and SE at
2.9 mi./2532 ft. A few yards farther side path leads L
to ledge with view to NW. For descent, continue ahead (N) on West Loop, reaching side trail R to Allen’s
Ledge in 0.8 mi. and trailhead in 1.9 mi.
WINTER: The UNH Trail is excellent for snowshoeing, though
some ledgy spots along steep, winding section on SW
side of summit may be tricky in crusty conditions, and sections along the
ledges may be hard to follow with the blazes covered
by snow. The out-and-back trip to the East Ledges is one of the finest half-day
snowshoe treks in the Whites.
VIEW GUIDE:
Main Summit, West/North
View: A ledge on the
NW side of the summit gives a good view to the W and N. Trees have grown up
enough so that this view is now mostly of the stand-up variety; much of it is
lost if you sit. On the far L, looking SW, is East Sleeper near the head of Downes Brook valley, with a long ridge extending R for
miles over intermediate bumps down to nearby Potash Mtn.
To the R of East Sleeper are rounded West Sleeper and the sharp peaks of South
and Middle Tripyramid rising from the Sabbaday Brook valley. Farther R is the peak of North Tripyramid poking above the flat-topped Fool Killer. Tripyramid’s Scaur Peak is to the R of the Fool Killer, with
Mt. Osceola and its East Peak behind to the R above a lower N spur
of the Fool Killer. Next to the R is the ledgy knob
of Potash Mtn. close at hand, with Mt. Kancamagus behind to its L. In the distance
over Potash’s R shoulder is sprawling Mt. Huntington. The tip of Mt. Liberty just peeks over Mt. Flume, seen over the col between Huntington’s main summit and its lower W peak,
and Mt. Lafayette peers over to the R of the main
summit of Huntington. To the R of the Huntington massif is the long ridge of Mt. Hancock, including (L to R) a sharp S spur,
South Hancock, North Hancock, and the mountain’s extensive E ridge, with two
prominent cirques carved into its flank. The great mass of Mt. Carrigain is to the R of Hancock, with the low
rock nubble of The Captain in the deep gap between
them. Mt. Bond is in the distance to the L of The
Captain, and South Twin is seen over Mt. Guyot above The Captain. To the R and in
front of Carrigain is the long rocky front of Green’s
Cliff, with Vose Spur rising behind. To the R of
Green’s Cliff is the wild spire of Mt. Lowell, forming the E side of Carrigain Notch. A western spur of Mt. Field is seen in the distance
through the notch. Mt. Anderson is just to the R of Lowell, and on
the far R are Mt. Nancy and Mt. Bemis, just W of N, with Mt. Field seen
through the col between Anderson and Nancy.
Main Summit, East/South View: By poking around the ledgy area on
the S side of the summit you can enjoy fine views into the heart of the eastern
Sandwich Range. From the main upper ledge, the view
is excellent standing and partly restricted if you sit. On the far L are the
low northern spurs of Mt. Chocorua, with parts of Pleasant Mtn. in Maine visible beyond. To the ESE is the
rocky crest of Mt. Chocorua, with the rounded Three Sisters
extending to the L, rises above the wooded N ridges of Mt. Paugus. Several large regenerating clearcuts scar the lower slopes of the Paugus
ridges, and close by and down below a portion of Hedgehog’s East Ledges can be
seen. Farther R is the broad, wooded summit of Mt. Paugus, rising beyond the Oliverian Brook valley. Swinging more to the R, the view extends
to Paugus Pass at the head of the Oliverian Brook valley; over this low point in the distance
are seen (L to R) Mt. Whittier, Bald Mtn., Mt. Flagg and Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range. Parts of the Moose Mtns. are seen in the distance to the L of
Whittier. Close at hand to the S are the eastern spurs of Mt. Passaconaway. The wooded backside of Square Ledge
is seen below and in front of Wonalancet Hedgehog,
with slide-marked Nanamocomuck Peak just to the R. Next to the R, and
dwarfing all else in the view, is the massive wooded hulk of Mt. Passaconaway. It is a mere mile and a half away
and towers 1500 ft. above your viewing spot, with steep ridges falling away on
three sides.
Main Summit, North View: About 0.1 mi. N of the main summit
the UNH Trail crosses an open ledgy, scrubby area
from which good views to the N are obtained. These views are partly restricted
and are best seen standing, but by moving around one can see many peaks. On the
L is Mt. Huntington with Mt. Flume and the tip of Mt. Liberty peering over its lower W peak and Mt. Lafayette seen over the long ridge of East
Huntington. Farther R, looking NW, you can see Mts. Hancock and Carrigain, with the low rocky nubble
of The Captain between them. Mt. Bond, South Twin and Mt. Guyot rise beyond The Captain. The ledgy front of Green’s Cliff is below Carrigain
on the R, with Church Pond sparkling on the Albany Intervale in front. To the R
of Carrigain is the Nancy Range (L to R): Mts. Lowell, Anderson,
Nancy and Bemis. Mt. Field is seen through the Anderson/Nancy col. The long,
level ridge of Duck Pond Mtn. is below and in front
of Bemis; over its R end is Mt. Webster, with Mt. Jackson’s small peak to the R. Farther R and
closer, seen across the Albany Intervale, is Mt. Tremont, with Owl Cliff in front and a slice
of Mt. Pierce over Tremont’s L slope. To the R of
Tremont, Mt. Washington soars above Oakes Gulf, with Mt. Monroe on its L and Boott
Spur and Slide Peak on its R. Mt. Crawford is seen below
Mt. Washington, Stairs Mountain (with Mts. Davis and Isolation above it) is under Boott Spur, and Mt. Resolution is beneath Slide Peak. Extending R from Slide Peak is the upper Rocky Branch Ridge, then
farther R and much closer is Bartlett Haystack. To the R of the Haystack are
Wildcat A and Carter Dome, with Middle Carter poking up between them. To the R
of Carter Dome is its spur, Rainbow Ridge, with Mt. Langdon below, and farther R are cliff-faced
Iron Mtn. and Jackson’s Black Mtn. behind the L slope of Bear Mtn. A bit farther down the trail the
view can be extended on the R to include the prominent spread of Bear Mtn., with Big Attitash
Mtn. on its R, above Table Mtn.
Kearsarge North appears over the col
to the R of Big Attitash, and on the far R is the
Moat Range.
East Ledges View: The main perch at the upper E end of
these cliffs has a superb view from NE through SSW, featuring an intimate look
into the eastern Sandwich Range. These ledges provide a wonderful
sunny, S-facing perch. The views can be expanded somewhat to the R (W) from
other ledges along the trail in that direction. On the far L, looking NE, is Bear Mtn., with Big Attitash
to its R. Ledgy Table Mtn.
is seen below and in front of Big Attitash. Next to
the R, seen beyond the broad Albany Intervale, is the ledgy
ridge of the Moats, with North Moat on the L and Middle and South Moat on the
R, throwing out many lower rocky spurs. The Boulder Loop Trail cliffs can be
seen under South Moat, and the spur known as Haystack is at the far R end of
the Moats. Farther R and closer are the northern spurs of Mt. Chocorua, including the sharp little peak of Blue Mtn.
Looking E the rocky, rounded Three Sisters and the bare peak of Chocorua are seen over the sprawling N ridges
of Mt. Paugus, which are marred by several large
old clearcuts. The Paugus
ridges extend R to that mountain’s broad, rounded, wooded summit, seen across
the Oliverian Brook valley. Farther R you look up to Paugus Pass at the head of this expansive
wilderness basin, with Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range rising in the distance. The most
dramatic vista from the East Ledges is looking SSW to the huge mass of Mt. Passaconaway, looming less than two miles away,
with its lower eastern spurs extending out to its L. These include
slide-scarred Nanamocomuck Peak on the R and flat-topped, two-tiered
Wonalancet Hedgehog on the L, with the forested N
side of Square Ledge in front. Most of the cliff of Square Ledge is not
visible, but the sharp dropoff on the L can be seen.
From the next set of
open ledges to the W along the trail you can enjoy a view extending from the
summit of Paugus on the L around to Passaconaway, and
then beyond to the WSW, where East Sleeper and part of its N ridge, West
Sleeper and South Tripyramid can be seen, framed by the slopes of Passaconaway
and the main summit of Hedgehog, whose cliffs rise close by on the W.
Allen’s Ledge: This spot offers perspectives NE and
E over the Albany Intervale not available from the other viewpoints on
Hedgehog. There are actually three spots at Allen’s Ledge. The massive outcrop
that the side trail skirts to the L along its base can be accessed by a steep
clamber up to the R, but has only limited views up to the summit of Hedgehog
and part of Mt. Passaconaway. After skirting this ledge, the side
trail scrambles up to the top of an E-facing slope of rock. Here there is a
spacious perch and a good but partly restricted view to the NE. The best views
are found by carefully proceeding 30 yds. down the sloping ledges along the L (N) side to a wonderful
flat shelf at the bottom, on the brink of a cliff. Here there is an
unobstructed and commanding view across the vast wooded flats of the intervale to the ring of surrounding mountains. On the far
L, glimpsed through the trees, Mt. Carrigain rises above Green’s Cliff. Farther R
the open view starts with the Nancy Range arrayed to the R of Carrigain Notch; L to R are the wild spire of Mt. Lowell, Mt. Anderson, Mt. Nancy, and Mt. Bemis poking above the flat ridge of
Duck Pond Mtn. The extensive bog near Church Pond can
be seen on the flats in line with Anderson. Next to the R is the rounded, bumpy
crest of Mt. Tremont rising above craggy Owl’s Cliff. Mt. Washington and Boott
Spur peer over a long ridge descending to the R from Owl’s Cliff. Pointy
Bartlett Haystack is next to the R, with the tops of Carter Dome and Rainbow
Ridge seen over its R slope. To the R of Bartlett Haystack, Iron Mtn. (in front, showing its great S
cliffs) and Jackson’s Black Mtn. (in back) are seen through Bear
Notch. Then comes the great spread of Bear Mtn., just 4 mi. to the NE across the intervale. Parts of Table Mtn. and Big Attitash
Mtn. are glimpsed over a lower R spur of Bear. Next
to the R is the long ledgy crest of the Moat Range, with lofty North Moat on the L and
bare-topped Middle and South Moat on the R. The spur of SW Moat pokes up in
front of the col to the L of Middle Moat, and the Boulder Loop Trail cliffs are
prominent down low under South Moat. Haystack, a lower spur of the range,
extends down to the R from South Moat. The view continues to the R across the
lower N spurs of Mt. Chocorua, including peaked Blue Mtn. popping up in the back. Farther R
the Three Sisters are seen to the L of and behind the flat-topped N spur of Mt. Paugus,
and Chocorua’s rocky summit juts up to the R of the
spur. From here, long humpy ridges lead up to the wooded mass of Mt. Paugus. On the far R and close by is the
flat wooded crest of Little Hedgehog, with the East Ledges hidden from view.
MOUNT ISRAEL
ELEVATION: 2630 ft./802 m
LOCATION: Between Sandwich Range and Squam Range, Town of Sandwich
USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Center Sandwich
GEOGRAPHY
Mt. Israel is a small but prominent peak that rises S of Sandwich Dome, SE of Sandwich Notch, and NE of
the Squam Range and Squam Lake. With one foot in the White Mountains and the other in the Lakes Region, Israel offers good views of both as reward
for a solid half-day hike with a big-mountain feel. Israel has two summits on its short ridgecrest. The 2630-ft. NE summit is the
highest; the SW summit is only slightly lower at 2619 ft. Ledges at both summits
provide a superb panorama of the Sandwich Range, and another ledge on the S
side of the mountain opens a good vista over Squam Lake and Lake Winnipesaukee.
The S slope of Israel hosts a hardwood forest with many
red oaks, including some very large specimens, unusual for the White Mountains. In the 1800s the lower slopes were
largely covered with pastures. The ridgecrest is cloaked in a dense forest of
spruce and fir.
From the SW summit of
Israel a westerly ridge drops to a col and rises to Dinsmore Mtn. (2303 ft.). On the W side of Dinsmore is the southern of two low passes that make up
Sandwich Notch; this 1470-ft. gap separates Dinsmore
and Israel from the Squam Range to the SW. From here the Bearcamp River flows SE, dropping over Beede Falls, then heads E along the base of Dinsmore and Israel. The broad plain S of Israel is
sometimes called the Mt. Israel Intervale. To the E of Israel is a low-lying
area of swamps and beaver ponds.
To the NW of Israel
is another flat, swampy area, drained by the upper section of the Beebe River. On this plateau are 10-acre Guinea
Pond, 6-acre Kiah Pond, and several beaver ponds and
meadows. On the N side of Israel is the low spur of Guinea Hill (1798
ft.). A powerline hugs the N base of Dinsmore and Israel and cuts across the flat saddle
between Israel and Guinea Hill. The upper reaches
of the Cold River wrap around the N side of Guinea
Hill, and beyond this stream to the NE is the sharp wooded cone of Young Mtn. (1990 ft.).
NOMENCLATURE
Mt. Israel was named for Israel Gilman, who
settled in the intervale S of the mountain in the
1760s. Dinsmore Mtn. was named for a family who lived in Sandwich during the 1800s.
HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS
Ca. 1768: Israel Gilman and family settle in valley
at S base of Mt. Israel. By 1775 town of Sandwich has 245 residents.
1803: Crude road is built through Sandwich
Notch, connecting town of Sandwich with Mad River valley to NW, and providing important
trade route between northern part of state and seacoast.
1812: Eliphalet
Smith and his father Jacob Smith build homestead at site of today’s Mead
Conservation Camp. House is destroyed by fire in 1830s; main section is rebuilt
in 1860s by Lewis Q. Smith.
1876: Moses Sweetser’s
guidebook describes trailless route up Israel, traversing pastures for first
two-thirds of ascent, then proceeding up “highly inclined ledges.” Book notes
that summit is extensive uplifted ledge bearing beacon of U.S. Coast Survey.
Detailed description of view is provided.
1901: Guidebook published by Wonalancet Out Door Club notes
that Mt. Israel is still trailless,
the ascent being made over pastures and then ledges, as noted in Sweetser’s guide.
1916-1918: Beebe River logging railroad is built, extending
22 mi. from Pemigewasset River at Campton up to base of Mt. Whiteface. Part of line runs through flat area
on N side of Israel – its bed is used by today’s Guinea
Pond Trail. Major logging operations are completed by 1924, but parts of line
are intermittently used until 1942.
1922: AMC
Guide notes state fire station has been established on summit, accessed by
steep trail from E. Mountain may also be ascended from pastures that extend far
up S side. By 1925 alternate, less steep trail has been established from E.
1929: Ice storm wipes out firewarden’s trail, and tower is no longer staffed.
Short-lived new trail leads up S side.
1934: AMC
Guide reports trail climbing mountain from NE, joining old firewarden’s route in upper part. This path is abandoned by
late 1940s.
1937: Wentworth Trail is opened up S side
of mountain by Squam Lakes Association; is partially relocated after 1938
hurricane.
1943-44: George J. Mead purchases 2443 acres
from Mt. Israel north to Black Mtn. on Sandwich Dome to prevent
extensive lumbering operation.
1950: Mrs. George Mead donates 2443-acre
tract to U.S. Forest Service, including Mt. Israel and area to N. As part of
arrangement, buildings at base of Wentworth Trail are established as wilderness
base camp for youths (known as Mead Base), leased to Daniel Webster Council of
Boy Scouts of America under special use permit starting in 1953.
1952: WMNF has opened Mead Trail,
connecting summit of Israel with Black Mtn. on Sandwich Dome. Path ascends Israel from abandoned logging RR bed on NW.
Soon Guinea Pond Trail is established along RR grade.
Late 1950s: Powerline
is built along NW base of mountain.
1993: New Bearcamp
River Trail is completed thro
