Paths & Peaks

Looking south from Mt. Bond

In this section of The Mountain Wanderer website we offer information that may be of interest to White Mountain hikers and other outdoors enthusiasts. We welcome your comments and suggestions - email us at info@mountainwanderer.com. When you’re in the mountains, please remember to be safe and to “walk softly” and leave no trace of your passing. Happy Trails!

Note: Hiking and snowshoeing in the mountains are potentially hazardous activities. Weather and trail conditions can change rapidly. Proper gear, clothing, conditioning and knowledge are prerequisites for a safe journey. Readers of this site are responsible for their own actions and safety and are urged to exercise caution and sound judgement. Use of hike descriptions purchased or read on this site is at the reader's own risk; The Mountain Wanderer and its staff assume no liability.

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• Peaks Below 4000 Feet
• Hiking
• Snowshoeing
• 4000-footers

PEAKS BELOW 4000 FEET

Presented in this section are chapters from a project covering the lower peaks of the White Mountains. The chapters are in a format similar to the book, "The 4000-Footers of the White Mountains" and include geography, nomenclature, historical highlights, trail approaches, view descriptions and, where appropriate, notes on winter. Someday, hopefully, this project will end up as a two-volume book series!

The Lower Peaks of the Sandwich Range

Hedgehog Mountain
Mount Israel
Mount Paugus
Potash Mountain
Sandwich Dome
The Scaur
West and East Sleeper
Snows Mountain
Square Ledge
The Wonalancet Range

More Peaks Below 4000 Feet

The Horn and The Bulge
Rogers Ledge
Terrace Mountain
Carr Mountain
Rattlesnake Mountain
Welch and Dickey Mountains
Mount Crawford
Mount Parker
Mount Resolution
Frankenstein Cliff
Speckled Mountain
Caribou Mountain
Red Rock Ridge
Eastman Mountain
The Moats
Peaked and Middle Mountains
Blueberry Mountain
Holts Ledge
Mount Cube
Smarts Mountain
Webster Slide Mountain
Black Mountain (Benton)
Mount Wolf
Bald Peak
Mount Pemigewasset

HEDGEHOG MOUNTAIN

ELEVATION: 2532 ft./772 m

LOCATION: Sandwich Range, Town of Albany

USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Mount Chocorua

GEOGRAPHY: Hedgehog Mtn. is a low, ledgy peak on the NE side of Mt. Passaconaway, separated from its towering 4043-ft. neighbor by a 2060-ft. col. It’s one of the most interesting small mountains in the Whites, with three viewpoints to visit along a five-mile loop trail. This bristling little peak is covered with dark spruces and presents granite cliffs on its S face, looking towards Mt. Passaconaway. From Passaconaway’s N outlook, one can study the bright, open ledges of Hedgehog close at hand.

Hedgehog divides the valley of Oliverian Brook on the E, with the N ridges of Mt Paugus beyond, from that of Downes Brook on the W, beyond which is Potash Mtn. at the end of the long N ridge of East Sleeper. To the N is the Albany Intervale, the broad valley of the Swift River. Hedgehog’s ridgecrest rises S from the Albany Intervale to the summit, passing over the NE-facing Allen’s Ledge (c. 1900 ft.), which offers wide views E and NE. Just S of Allen’s Ledge is a shallow ravine on the E side of the mountain drained by the headwaters of White Brook.

The main summit drops off in S-facing cliffs, and ledges around the top provide good views NW and SE. To the E of the main summit is a lower knob (2340 ft.) sometimes called “Little Hedgehog” that bears the East Ledges, the largest expanse of open rock on the mountain, with more cliffs dropping to the S. This area provides excellent views S and E. On the NE side of the E knob is a triangular slab of granite (off-trail) that can be seen from distant viewpoints.

NOMENCLATURE

Ranks of spruces along its crest give Hedgehog a porcupine-like appearance when viewed from the Albany Intervale, accounting for the mountain’s name. Another Hedgehog, a SE spur of Passaconaway in the Wonalancet Range, is located just 3 mi. to the S, hence the mountain described here is sometimes referred to as the “Albany Hedgehog.”

Allen’s Ledge is named after Jack Allen, a hunter, trapper, guide and crusty character who frequented the Albany Intervale in the late 1800s and early 1900s. According to Charles Edward Beals, Jr., writing in Passaconaway in the White Mountains, when someone asked Allen what the rocks up on the side of Hedgehog were, he replied, “Them are called Allen’s Ledge!”

The UNH Trail is named after a forestry camp that was once operated by the University of New Hampshire in the Albany Intervale to the N of Hedgehog.

HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS

1790s: First settlers clear land in Albany Intervale N of Hedgehog.

1800: Austin George and family homestead in intervale; family abandons home in 1815.

1824: Amzi Russell family moves into abandoned George house.

1837: First road is laid out from Conway into Albany Intervale, ending at settlement near N base of Hedgehog. Thomas H. Shackford family is among prominent residents.

ca. 1840: Lumbermen try driving logs down rock-strewn Swift River, but effort is soon abandoned.

Late 1860s: James M. Shackford (son of Thomas) enlarges house to take in summer boarders; inn is called “Passaconaway House” or “Shackford’s.” Later owners continue to operate hostelry. President Grover Cleveland is frequent guest.

1873: Jack Allen, Civil War veteran, moves into intervale and becomes legendary local character as guide, hunter, angler, trapper and teller of tales.

1891: Thomas Colbath, husband of Ruth Colbath, unexpectedly leaves their house in intervale to E of Hedgehog. For 39 years she lights lantern each night in window hoping for his return – one of most poignant tales of region. He does return in 1933 – three years after Ruth’s death. Russell-Colbath House is now maintained as historic site by USFS.

1906-1916: Swift River Railroad logging operation harvests vast quantities of timber in Albany Intervale; main line of RR runs along N base of Hedgehog (part of this is used by lower section of today’s UNH Trail). Spur line runs a mile up Oliverian Brook valley to E of Hedgehog. Lumber roads are extended up Downes Brook valley to W. At its height, operation employs over 1500 workers with two school houses, post office and several boarding houses. At some point Passaconaway post office is featured as smallest in world in “Ripley’s Believe It or Not.”

1912: Fire in Oliverian Brook valley burns slopes between Hedgehog Mtn., Mt. Passaconaway and Mt. Paugus. Also in this year, Jack Allen dies.

1916: Charles Edward Beals, Jr. describes Hedgehog, a “bristling, hump-backed hill,” in Passaconaway in the White Mountains, his narrative about the Albany Intervale. He writes that “…from Square Ledge its scrawny cliffs present an appearance both wild and terrible,” while from a vantage in the valley “with one end high in the air and the other lost in obscurity, [it] resembles a sinking ship with bow high in the air, while the stern is submerged beneath the waves.” He notes that lumbermen have stripped much of the mountain’s forest cover and that the summit is seldom visited. The short trek to Allen’s Ledge is highly recommended, however, for with its wide views it “gives you more for your money than any other climb.”

1916: 2^nd edition of AMC White Mountain Guide notes that former trail up Hedgehog has been destroyed by lumbering; bushwhack route to summit is described. About this time USFS acquires much of land in Passaconaway area.

1916: Passaconaway House burns; the next year it is replaced by new building, Swift River Inn.

1920: AMC Guide reports that trail up Hedgehog has been restored, ascends to summit via Allen’s Ledge. Through 1920s and 1930s trail is maintained by local Passaconaway Mountain Club (PMC).

1925: PMC has cut new section of trail creating loop over summit. New route ascends to col between main and east peaks, with spur out to East Ledges, then climbs to summit.

1928: Two groups of AMC climbers establish first rock climbing routes on East Ledges. One group also makes climb of summit cliff.

1940: Trails to Hedgehog now maintained by WMNF. University of New Hampshire has established forestry school in valley at N base of mountain, using land donated to school after closing of Swift River Inn.

1945: Hedgehog trails abandoned by WMNF. Peak remains trailless until early 1960s.

1962: Trails are cleared to summit and to East Ledges, but link between them remains abandoned, having not been cleared since 1938 hurricane.

1971: Tall spruce from Clark L. Stevens Forest just N of Hedgehog is cut by USFS and sent to Washington, DC as Christmas tree for White House lawn.

Early 1970s: WMNF re-opens section between summit and East Ledges, creating loop now called UNH Trail.

Late 1970s: North Conway-based climbers put up several new rock climbing routes on East Ledges.

Early 1990s: New hiker parking lot is created for UNH, Mount Potash and Downes Brook Trails. Network of X-C ski trails is opened in flat area at N base of Hedgehog.

2006: Sandwich Range Wilderness is expanded, bringing boundary N to southern slopes of Hedgehog.

TRAIL APPROACHES

NORTH APPROACHES from Kancamagus Highway (NH 112)

UNH Trail

To main summit and return via West Loop: 3.8 mi. round trip, 1300-ft. elevation gain

Loop over summit with ascent via East Loop and East Ledges, descent via West Loop: 4.8 mi. loop, 1450-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (1250 ft.): UNH Trail starts from large hiker’s parking lot for UNH, Mount Potash and Downes Brook Trails, located at end of short side road off S side of Kancamagus Highway across from Passaconaway Campground. This is 2 mi. W of jct. with Bear Notch Rd.

The UNH Trail makes a 4.8 mi. loop over Hedgehog, making it possible to visit Allen’s Ledge and the main summit, out-and-back, via the West Loop, or to include the scenic East Ledges via the East Loop. Both options are described below.

To main summit and return via West Loop

From parking area, walk short distance S on gravel road and turn L up bank at sign for UNH Trail, which follows needle-carpeted corridor on level through beautiful white pines along grade of old Swift River logging railroad. At 0.2 mi. turn R off grade onto West Loop (East Loop continues ahead on grade). Trail is nearly level to jct. R with X-C ski trail at 0.3 mi., then climbs at easy, then moderate grade on wide path through hardwoods and mixed woods. At 0.8 mi. climb onto lovely spruce and hemlock-wooded hogback, then drop left to cross small streambed and ascend rocky, rooty section through more hemlock and spruce, angling up to L. At 1.1 mi./1850 ft. trail makes sharp turn to R; here root-strewn side trail continues steeply ahead up slope to base of massive outcrop, then turns L and scrambles up to top of Allen’s Ledge, where there is good ledgy perch with view NE. Most open views are found by descending carefully 30 yds. down sloping ledge ramp to level clifftop perch at bottom, with wide view N and E over Albany Intervale to surrounding mountains. Use caution if wet or icy. Allen’s Ledge makes good objective for shorter hike – 2.2 mi. round trip, 650-ft. elevation gain.

Main trail bears R at this jct., then L, meanders up across shoulder, passes side path L up to ledge with view E to Mt. Chocorua. Trail steepens at ca. 2100 ft., climbing steadily to S through deep spruce forest, with occasional steeper pitches and rooty, rocky footing in places. Higher up views begin to appear through trees to R, looking W over Downes Brook valley to Tripyramids and Potash Mtn.; one viewpoint just to R of trail at c. 2300 ft. provides more open vista in this direction. As grade eases approaching summit, trail passes through semi-open scrubby area with interesting views back to NW and N (best viewed on descent), with Mt. Carrigain, Nancy Range, Mt. Washington, Wildcats and Carters prominent in distance and Green’s Cliff, Church Pond and Mt. Tremont seen down in Albany Intervale. At top of open area trail re-enters woods and climbs easily to flat summit at 1.9 mi./2532 ft. Short side path leads R to ledge with stand-up views to peaks W and NW; just beyond, ledge on L offers vistas S to Mt. Passaconaway and SE to Mts. Paugus and Chocorua. Beyond, UNH Trail soon begins ledgy, winding descent to SE, described below in reverse direction. Additional views to W are found on ledge to R of trail a short distance beyond summit, where trail makes L turn.

Ascent via East Loop and East Ledges

From trailhead, follow UNH Trail to jct. with West Loop at 0.2 mi., as described above. From here continue straight (E) on East Loop along railroad grade. At 0.4 mi. turn R off grade at sign as X-C ski trail continues ahead. Trail crosses washed-out area and climbs easily, then moderately through hemlocks and hardwoods along NE slope of mountain, passing below Allen’s Ledge. After steeper pitch, swing R over spruce-clad knoll and descend slightly to cross White Brook, here a small headwater stream, at 1.3 mi./1780 ft. Ascend through ice-damaged hardwoods, then through bouldery area. Line of wooded ledges appears up on R. Trail then makes three switchbacks up through wild, mossy spruce forest. Third switchback is gently descending traverse. Drop over small ledge step and turn R at 1.8 mi. with vista L over Albany Intervale to the Wildcats and Carters, Bear Mtn., Table Mtn. and the Moat Range. Trail now climbs steadily S to E end of East Ledges, reached at 2.0 mi./2300 ft. From first ledges there are views L to Moats. Trail bears R here for short scramble up ledges to spacious flat perches atop main S-facing cliffs. Stay back from edge and use caution in wet or icy conditions. Here there are exceptional views up to looming Mt. Passaconaway and across broad valley of Oliverian Brook to Passaconaway’s SE spurs, Paugus Pass and Mts. Paugus and Chocorua. This sunny perch is best lunch spot on mountain, and makes fine out-and-back trip by itself – 4.0 mi. round trip, 1100-ft. elevation gain.

Beyond these ledges trail dips into woods, passes ledge with partial view W to South and Middle Tripyramid, and crosses head of gully. Here side trail R leads to flat open ledge with partial view N to Mt. Carrigain, Twin Range and Nancy Range and W up to cliffs of Hedgehog summit. Main trail bears L to skirt open clifftop (to L) on narrow granite shelf(use caution) and soon emerges on broad ledges with more good views S, unique look W to Sleepers and South Tripyramid to R of Passaconaway, and close-in view up to Hedgehog summit cliffs. Drop down one last set of ledges into woods (follow blazes carefully), descend to low spot, then traverse through wild, bouldery spruce forest, with minor ups and downs. From low point at c. 2200 ft., trail begins working up along S slope of main summit, soon swinging to R (N) through more boulders. Higher up you veer SE for fairly steep, winding climb through rough, ledgy terrain with a couple of minor scrambles. Higher up trail emerges on ledges with views to S and SE. It turns L and climbs partway up knobby line of ledges, dips L into woods, then ascends steeply to regain ledges. It continues winding up through woods and over ledges; near top it makes R turn with ledge to L of trail offering view W over Downes Brook valley to Tripyramids and out to NW, and soon gains ledge near summit of Hedgehog with view S and SE at 2.9 mi./2532 ft. A few yards farther side path leads L to ledge with view to NW. For descent, continue ahead (N) on West Loop, reaching side trail R to Allen’s Ledge in 0.8 mi. and trailhead in 1.9 mi.

WINTER: The UNH Trail is excellent for snowshoeing, though some ledgy spots along steep, winding section on SW side of summit may be tricky in crusty conditions, and sections along the ledges may be hard to follow with the blazes covered by snow. The out-and-back trip to the East Ledges is one of the finest half-day snowshoe treks in the Whites.

VIEW GUIDE:

Main Summit, West/North View: A ledge on the NW side of the summit gives a good view to the W and N. Trees have grown up enough so that this view is now mostly of the stand-up variety; much of it is lost if you sit. On the far L, looking SW, is East Sleeper near the head of Downes Brook valley, with a long ridge extending R for miles over intermediate bumps down to nearby Potash Mtn. To the R of East Sleeper are rounded West Sleeper and the sharp peaks of South and Middle Tripyramid rising from the Sabbaday Brook valley. Farther R is the peak of North Tripyramid poking above the flat-topped Fool Killer. Tripyramid’s Scaur Peak is to the R of the Fool Killer, with Mt. Osceola and its East Peak behind to the R above a lower N spur of the Fool Killer. Next to the R is the ledgy knob of Potash Mtn. close at hand, with Mt. Kancamagus behind to its L. In the distance over Potash’s R shoulder is sprawling Mt. Huntington. The tip of Mt. Liberty just peeks over Mt. Flume, seen over the col between Huntington’s main summit and its lower W peak, and Mt. Lafayette peers over to the R of the main summit of Huntington. To the R of the Huntington massif is the long ridge of Mt. Hancock, including (L to R) a sharp S spur, South Hancock, North Hancock, and the mountain’s extensive E ridge, with two prominent cirques carved into its flank. The great mass of Mt. Carrigain is to the R of Hancock, with the low rock nubble of The Captain in the deep gap between them. Mt. Bond is in the distance to the L of The Captain, and South Twin is seen over Mt. Guyot above The Captain. To the R and in front of Carrigain is the long rocky front of Green’s Cliff, with Vose Spur rising behind. To the R of Green’s Cliff is the wild spire of Mt. Lowell, forming the E side of Carrigain Notch. A western spur of Mt. Field is seen in the distance through the notch. Mt. Anderson is just to the R of Lowell, and on the far R are Mt. Nancy and Mt. Bemis, just W of N, with Mt. Field seen through the col between Anderson and Nancy.

Main Summit, East/South View: By poking around the ledgy area on the S side of the summit you can enjoy fine views into the heart of the eastern Sandwich Range. From the main upper ledge, the view is excellent standing and partly restricted if you sit. On the far L are the low northern spurs of Mt. Chocorua, with parts of Pleasant Mtn. in Maine visible beyond. To the ESE is the rocky crest of Mt. Chocorua, with the rounded Three Sisters extending to the L, rises above the wooded N ridges of Mt. Paugus. Several large regenerating clearcuts scar the lower slopes of the Paugus ridges, and close by and down below a portion of Hedgehog’s East Ledges can be seen. Farther R is the broad, wooded summit of Mt. Paugus, rising beyond the Oliverian Brook valley. Swinging more to the R, the view extends to Paugus Pass at the head of the Oliverian Brook valley; over this low point in the distance are seen (L to R) Mt. Whittier, Bald Mtn., Mt. Flagg and Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range. Parts of the Moose Mtns. are seen in the distance to the L of Whittier. Close at hand to the S are the eastern spurs of Mt. Passaconaway. The wooded backside of Square Ledge is seen below and in front of Wonalancet Hedgehog, with slide-marked Nanamocomuck Peak just to the R. Next to the R, and dwarfing all else in the view, is the massive wooded hulk of Mt. Passaconaway. It is a mere mile and a half away and towers 1500 ft. above your viewing spot, with steep ridges falling away on three sides.

Main Summit, North View: About 0.1 mi. N of the main summit the UNH Trail crosses an open ledgy, scrubby area from which good views to the N are obtained. These views are partly restricted and are best seen standing, but by moving around one can see many peaks. On the L is Mt. Huntington with Mt. Flume and the tip of Mt. Liberty peering over its lower W peak and Mt. Lafayette seen over the long ridge of East Huntington. Farther R, looking NW, you can see Mts. Hancock and Carrigain, with the low rocky nubble of The Captain between them. Mt. Bond, South Twin and Mt. Guyot rise beyond The Captain. The ledgy front of Green’s Cliff is below Carrigain on the R, with Church Pond sparkling on the Albany Intervale in front. To the R of Carrigain is the Nancy Range (L to R): Mts. Lowell, Anderson, Nancy and Bemis. Mt. Field is seen through the Anderson/Nancy col. The long, level ridge of Duck Pond Mtn. is below and in front of Bemis; over its R end is Mt. Webster, with Mt. Jackson’s small peak to the R. Farther R and closer, seen across the Albany Intervale, is Mt. Tremont, with Owl Cliff in front and a slice of Mt. Pierce over Tremont’s L slope. To the R of Tremont, Mt. Washington soars above Oakes Gulf, with Mt. Monroe on its L and Boott Spur and Slide Peak on its R. Mt. Crawford is seen below Mt. Washington, Stairs Mountain (with Mts. Davis and Isolation above it) is under Boott Spur, and Mt. Resolution is beneath Slide Peak. Extending R from Slide Peak is the upper Rocky Branch Ridge, then farther R and much closer is Bartlett Haystack. To the R of the Haystack are Wildcat A and Carter Dome, with Middle Carter poking up between them. To the R of Carter Dome is its spur, Rainbow Ridge, with Mt. Langdon below, and farther R are cliff-faced Iron Mtn. and Jackson’s Black Mtn. behind the L slope of Bear Mtn. A bit farther down the trail the view can be extended on the R to include the prominent spread of Bear Mtn., with Big Attitash Mtn. on its R, above Table Mtn. Kearsarge North appears over the col to the R of Big Attitash, and on the far R is the Moat Range.

East Ledges View: The main perch at the upper E end of these cliffs has a superb view from NE through SSW, featuring an intimate look into the eastern Sandwich Range. These ledges provide a wonderful sunny, S-facing perch. The views can be expanded somewhat to the R (W) from other ledges along the trail in that direction. On the far L, looking NE, is Bear Mtn., with Big Attitash to its R. Ledgy Table Mtn. is seen below and in front of Big Attitash. Next to the R, seen beyond the broad Albany Intervale, is the ledgy ridge of the Moats, with North Moat on the L and Middle and South Moat on the R, throwing out many lower rocky spurs. The Boulder Loop Trail cliffs can be seen under South Moat, and the spur known as Haystack is at the far R end of the Moats. Farther R and closer are the northern spurs of Mt. Chocorua, including the sharp little peak of Blue Mtn. Looking E the rocky, rounded Three Sisters and the bare peak of Chocorua are seen over the sprawling N ridges of Mt. Paugus, which are marred by several large old clearcuts. The Paugus ridges extend R to that mountain’s broad, rounded, wooded summit, seen across the Oliverian Brook valley. Farther R you look up to Paugus Pass at the head of this expansive wilderness basin, with Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range rising in the distance. The most dramatic vista from the East Ledges is looking SSW to the huge mass of Mt. Passaconaway, looming less than two miles away, with its lower eastern spurs extending out to its L. These include slide-scarred Nanamocomuck Peak on the R and flat-topped, two-tiered Wonalancet Hedgehog on the L, with the forested N side of Square Ledge in front. Most of the cliff of Square Ledge is not visible, but the sharp dropoff on the L can be seen.

From the next set of open ledges to the W along the trail you can enjoy a view extending from the summit of Paugus on the L around to Passaconaway, and then beyond to the WSW, where East Sleeper and part of its N ridge, West Sleeper and South Tripyramid can be seen, framed by the slopes of Passaconaway and the main summit of Hedgehog, whose cliffs rise close by on the W.

Allen’s Ledge: This spot offers perspectives NE and E over the Albany Intervale not available from the other viewpoints on Hedgehog. There are actually three spots at Allen’s Ledge. The massive outcrop that the side trail skirts to the L along its base can be accessed by a steep clamber up to the R, but has only limited views up to the summit of Hedgehog and part of Mt. Passaconaway. After skirting this ledge, the side trail scrambles up to the top of an E-facing slope of rock. Here there is a spacious perch and a good but partly restricted view to the NE. The best views are found by carefully proceeding 30 yds. down the sloping ledges along the L (N) side to a wonderful flat shelf at the bottom, on the brink of a cliff. Here there is an unobstructed and commanding view across the vast wooded flats of the intervale to the ring of surrounding mountains. On the far L, glimpsed through the trees, Mt. Carrigain rises above Green’s Cliff. Farther R the open view starts with the Nancy Range arrayed to the R of Carrigain Notch; L to R are the wild spire of Mt. Lowell, Mt. Anderson, Mt. Nancy, and Mt. Bemis poking above the flat ridge of Duck Pond Mtn. The extensive bog near Church Pond can be seen on the flats in line with Anderson. Next to the R is the rounded, bumpy crest of Mt. Tremont rising above craggy Owl’s Cliff. Mt. Washington and Boott Spur peer over a long ridge descending to the R from Owl’s Cliff. Pointy Bartlett Haystack is next to the R, with the tops of Carter Dome and Rainbow Ridge seen over its R slope. To the R of Bartlett Haystack, Iron Mtn. (in front, showing its great S cliffs) and Jackson’s Black Mtn. (in back) are seen through Bear Notch. Then comes the great spread of Bear Mtn., just 4 mi. to the NE across the intervale. Parts of Table Mtn. and Big Attitash Mtn. are glimpsed over a lower R spur of Bear. Next to the R is the long ledgy crest of the Moat Range, with lofty North Moat on the L and bare-topped Middle and South Moat on the R. The spur of SW Moat pokes up in front of the col to the L of Middle Moat, and the Boulder Loop Trail cliffs are prominent down low under South Moat. Haystack, a lower spur of the range, extends down to the R from South Moat. The view continues to the R across the lower N spurs of Mt. Chocorua, including peaked Blue Mtn. popping up in the back. Farther R the Three Sisters are seen to the L of and behind the flat-topped N spur of Mt. Paugus, and Chocorua’s rocky summit juts up to the R of the spur. From here, long humpy ridges lead up to the wooded mass of Mt. Paugus. On the far R and close by is the flat wooded crest of Little Hedgehog, with the East Ledges hidden from view.

MOUNT ISRAEL

ELEVATION: 2630 ft./802 m

LOCATION: Between Sandwich Range and Squam Range, Town of Sandwich

USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Center Sandwich

GEOGRAPHY

Mt. Israel is a small but prominent peak that rises S of Sandwich Dome, SE of Sandwich Notch, and NE of the Squam Range and Squam Lake. With one foot in the White Mountains and the other in the Lakes Region, Israel offers good views of both as reward for a solid half-day hike with a big-mountain feel. Israel has two summits on its short ridgecrest. The 2630-ft. NE summit is the highest; the SW summit is only slightly lower at 2619 ft. Ledges at both summits provide a superb panorama of the Sandwich Range, and another ledge on the S side of the mountain opens a good vista over Squam Lake and Lake Winnipesaukee.

The S slope of Israel hosts a hardwood forest with many red oaks, including some very large specimens, unusual for the White Mountains. In the 1800s the lower slopes were largely covered with pastures. The ridgecrest is cloaked in a dense forest of spruce and fir.

From the SW summit of Israel a westerly ridge drops to a col and rises to Dinsmore Mtn. (2303 ft.). On the W side of Dinsmore is the southern of two low passes that make up Sandwich Notch; this 1470-ft. gap separates Dinsmore and Israel from the Squam Range to the SW. From here the Bearcamp River flows SE, dropping over Beede Falls, then heads E along the base of Dinsmore and Israel. The broad plain S of Israel is sometimes called the Mt. Israel Intervale. To the E of Israel is a low-lying area of swamps and beaver ponds.

To the NW of Israel is another flat, swampy area, drained by the upper section of the Beebe River. On this plateau are 10-acre Guinea Pond, 6-acre Kiah Pond, and several beaver ponds and meadows. On the N side of Israel is the low spur of Guinea Hill (1798 ft.). A powerline hugs the N base of Dinsmore and Israel and cuts across the flat saddle between Israel and Guinea Hill. The upper reaches of the Cold River wrap around the N side of Guinea Hill, and beyond this stream to the NE is the sharp wooded cone of Young Mtn. (1990 ft.).

NOMENCLATURE

Mt. Israel was named for Israel Gilman, who settled in the intervale S of the mountain in the 1760s. Dinsmore Mtn. was named for a family who lived in Sandwich during the 1800s.

HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS

Ca. 1768: Israel Gilman and family settle in valley at S base of Mt. Israel. By 1775 town of Sandwich has 245 residents.

1803: Crude road is built through Sandwich Notch, connecting town of Sandwich with Mad River valley to NW, and providing important trade route between northern part of state and seacoast.

1812: Eliphalet Smith and his father Jacob Smith build homestead at site of today’s Mead Conservation Camp. House is destroyed by fire in 1830s; main section is rebuilt in 1860s by Lewis Q. Smith.

1876: Moses Sweetser’s guidebook describes trailless route up Israel, traversing pastures for first two-thirds of ascent, then proceeding up “highly inclined ledges.” Book notes that summit is extensive uplifted ledge bearing beacon of U.S. Coast Survey. Detailed description of view is provided.

1901: Guidebook published by Wonalancet Out Door Club notes that Mt. Israel is still trailless, the ascent being made over pastures and then ledges, as noted in Sweetser’s guide.

1916-1918: Beebe River logging railroad is built, extending 22 mi. from Pemigewasset River at Campton up to base of Mt. Whiteface. Part of line runs through flat area on N side of Israel – its bed is used by today’s Guinea Pond Trail. Major logging operations are completed by 1924, but parts of line are intermittently used until 1942.

1922: AMC Guide notes state fire station has been established on summit, accessed by steep trail from E. Mountain may also be ascended from pastures that extend far up S side. By 1925 alternate, less steep trail has been established from E.

1929: Ice storm wipes out firewarden’s trail, and tower is no longer staffed. Short-lived new trail leads up S side.

1934: AMC Guide reports trail climbing mountain from NE, joining old firewarden’s route in upper part. This path is abandoned by late 1940s.

1937: Wentworth Trail is opened up S side of mountain by Squam Lakes Association; is partially relocated after 1938 hurricane.

1943-44: George J. Mead purchases 2443 acres from Mt. Israel north to Black Mtn. on Sandwich Dome to prevent extensive lumbering operation.

1950: Mrs. George Mead donates 2443-acre tract to U.S. Forest Service, including Mt. Israel and area to N. As part of arrangement, buildings at base of Wentworth Trail are established as wilderness base camp for youths (known as Mead Base), leased to Daniel Webster Council of Boy Scouts of America under special use permit starting in 1953.

1952: WMNF has opened Mead Trail, connecting summit of Israel with Black Mtn. on Sandwich Dome. Path ascends Israel from abandoned logging RR bed on NW. Soon Guinea Pond Trail is established along RR grade.

Late 1950s: Powerline is built along NW base of mountain.

1993: New Bearcamp River Trail is completed through valley to S and E of mountain. Cook Farm near Mead Base has been protected through conservation easement.

1999: Boy Scouts end use of Mead Base; in ensuing years buildings are used by trail crews of Wonalancet Out Door Club and Squam Lakes Association and name is changed to Mead Conservation Center.

TRAIL APPROACHES

SOUTH APPROACH from Mead Conservation Center

Wentworth Trail

4.2 mi. round trip, 1700-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (930 ft.): The shorter of the two trail routes to Mt. Israel starts at a former Boy Scout camp (Mead Base), now called Mead Conservation Center and used as housing for WODC and SLA trail maintenance crews, located on a side road off the Sandwich Notch Rd. near its E end. From NH 113 in Center Sandwich (11.6 mi. N of US 3 in Holderness and ca. 6 mi. W of NH 25 near South Tamworth), turn NW onto Grove St. – look for signs for Sandwich Notch Rd. and Mead Conservation Center. In 0.4 mi. bear L on Diamond Ledge Rd. (do not bear R onto Mt. Israel Rd.), which leads past fields with fine views S and then changes to gravel. At 2.4 mi. from NH 113 turn R onto the road leading to Mead Conservation Center, where Sandwich Notch Rd. continues ahead. Drive 0.4 mi. up the side road to its end and park in the field on the R, below the camp buildings.

The Wentworth Trail provides a fairly stiff climb to the top of Israel. There is some rough footing in places along the upper mile. In addition to views from the summit, it passes vistas S to the Lakes Region from a ledge and N to the Sandwich Range from the slightly lower SW summit. From Mead Conservation Center, yellow-blazed trail passes to L of buildings, enters woods, and climbs moderately through mixed hardwoods. It passes through stone wall at 0.3 mi., then swings R to traverse across slope past more stone walls. Cross small brook and turn L to climb beside it, then bear R, away from brook, and climb steadily, passing magnificent large maple on R. At 1.0 mi./1775 ft. swing L by huge oak and slab steeply up across slope clad in unusual forest of red oak. Ascend by zig-zags, steeply in places, amidst oaks and mixed woods, with ice storm damage evident. One final traverse to L (W) leads up into spruces. At 1.5 mi./2350 ft. pass under rock face up on R. Here trail turns R up short steep, rough pitch; down a few yds. to L is ledge with good stand-up view S over Lakes Region, including Squam Lake, part of Winnipesaukee, their surrounding mountains, and distant peaks.

From outlook scramble up steep pitch, climb steadily a short way, then amble easily along ridgecrest through dense spruces. Reach ledgy top of SW summit at 1.8 mi./ 2619 ft. Here there is fine view N to Sandwich Range – preview of wider views from true summit. Trail makes sharp R along ledges, then soon swings L and descends over ledges, and crosses more semi-open scrubby ledges (follow markings carefully). It swings R and L over another ledge with partial view of Lakes Region, then make short easy climb through spruces to jct. L with Mead Trail at 2.1 mi./2610 ft. Continue ahead 75 yds. up to rocky knob that is true summit of Israel. Good views N and W from here and from sloping ledges down in front. From front (N side) of summit knob, somewhat obscure unmarked path leads ca. 100 yds. to E, dropping over a couple of ledge steps, then running through patch of woods to expansive open ledges with views to N and E. A fine E-facing perch is accessible another 30 yds. to the E, opening views around to the S.

NORTHWEST APPROACH from Sandwich Notch Rd.

Guinea Pond Trail, Mead Trail

6.6 mi. round trip, 1300-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (1320 ft.): The Guinea Pond Trail starts from the Sandwich Notch Rd., 4.9 mi. S of NH 49 and just S of a crossroads and powerline. The trailhead is 5.8 mi. N of NH 113 in Center Sandwich. Allow plenty of time for the slow drive on this narrow, rough road. Trailhead parking area is 100 yds. up Beebe River Rd. (the road that runs W from the crossroads) on N side. There is no parking at start of trail.

This is a longer and easier approach to Mt. Israel, passing by some interesting wetlands, with the option of a short side trip to Guinea Pond. From trailhead, follow old road up past gate and through powerline clearing. Here trail picks up old grade of Beebe River logging RR and runs nearly level through hardwoods, then enters extensive area of swamps and meadows, with some wet footing and occasional vistas of Sandwich Dome from open areas. Pass second gate at 1.2 mi. and 0.1 mi. beyond follow bypass R through birch woods to avoid flooded area; at start of this bypass is picturesque view over beaver pond to ridge of Sandwich Dome. Return to RR grade at 1.6 mi./1450 ft. and in another 40 yd. reach jct. R with Mead Trail. (For side trip to Guinea Pond, continue ahead on Guinea Pond Trail, quickly passing jct. L with Black Mountain Pond Trail. Ahead are three brook crossings; first two can be avoided via bypass on R side. At 0.2 mi. from Mead Trail jct., side trail leads 0.2 mi. over easy terrain, with one mucky section, to swampy shore of pond. Bear L at fork and hop out on rocks and logs for pretty view of Sandwich Dome across pond. Out-and-back trip to pond from Mead Trail jct. is 0.8 mi. with minimal elevation gain.)

From jct. with Guinea Pond Trail, Mead Trail heads SE. It climbs over low knoll, passes through wet sag and crosses powerline. It then climbs at easy to moderate grade through hardwoods, soon crossing brook and ascending along its S side. Severe ice storm damage is evident in places. At 0.9 mi. from Guinea Pond Trail (el. 1900 ft.), cross back over stream and climb moderately through birches. Grade steepens at L turn in birch-cloaked ravine, then trail enters spruce forest at 2425 ft. and ascends steadily to jct. with Mead Trail, 1.7 mi. from Guinea Pond Trail. Turn L to reach rocky summit knob in 75 yds.

Long, interesting loop – including waterfalls and historic sites – can be made over Mt. Israel from either trailhead, using Wentworth Trail and Guinea Pond Trail/Mead Trail routes combined with 0.6 mi. of Bearcamp River Trail and 2.3 mi. section of Sandwich Notch Rd. Total for loop is 8.6 mi. with 1850-ft. elevation gain; add 0.8 mi. for out-and-back side trip to Guinea Pond. From trailhead for Wentworth Trail at Mead Conservation Center, yellow-blazed Bearcamp River Trail follows gated road to W, passing SLA-operated campground on R, then swings L off road, crosses small brook, and enters fine hemlock forest. Trail ascends easily through tumble of large glacial erratics and at 0.4 mi. passes Cow Cave on R. Tradition avers that a stray cow survived an entire winter under this overhanging ledge. A short distance farther, unmarked path diverges sharp L and leads 100 yds. to top of open area of ledges and cascades on Bearcamp River. Main trail continues ahead to pool at base of beautiful Beede Falls at 0.5 mi., turns L to cross stream, then rises easily to parking area for Sandwich Town Park on Sandwich Notch Rd. at 0.6 mi. Turn R on this narrow dirt road (with several short paved sections), which ascends steeply for short distance, hen at easier grade with occasional level stretches and descents. At 1.1 mi., just before trailhead for Crawford-Ridgepole Trail on L, old road on R leads to short distance to cellar hole from 1800s. In another 0.2 mi. on main road, huge Pulpit Rock – used as perch for sermons by 19^th century preacher – looms on R; top can be accessed with cautious scramble up back side. Road continues climbing to 1470-ft. height-of-land between Bearcamp River and Beebe River watersheds, then descends to trailhead for Guinea Pond Trail on R, 2.9 mi. from Mead Conservation Center. Along this descent, path leads across field on L to mid-1800s cemetery – please treat this final resting place with respect. To continue loop, follow Guinea Pond Trail and Mead Trail to summit of Mt. Israel, then descend Wentworth Trail to starting point.

WINTER: The Wentworth Trail is an excellent snowshoe trip for intermediates, with a few short steep pitches providing some challenge. The approach roads are plowed and well-sanded, though sometimes icy underneath; park either at the jct. of the Mead Base Rd. with the unplowed Sandwich Notch Rd., adding 0.4 mi. on foot each way, or at a parking spot on R side of Mead Base Rd. 0.2 mi. in from the main road. In recent years the road has been plowed and sanded almost to Mead Base due to new house construction, but be sure not to block the driveway or road.

VIEW GUIDE

South View Ledge: This ledge 1.5 mi. up the Wentworth Trail offers a fine view over the Lakes Region to the S. It is mostly a standup view, and you must move around to get the full panorama through gaps in the trees. On the far L, looking SE, the Ossipee Range spreads beyond island-dotted Red Hill Pond. Mt. Shaw, highest in the range, rises in the back to the R of center. To the R of the Ossipees the Moose Mtns. and Copple Crown Mtn. are seen on the horizon. Farther to the R are Moultonborough Bay and part of the main reach of Lake Winnipesaukee, with the Blue Hills range (including Blue Job Mtn.) in the distance. Looking S, Winnipesaukee disappears behind the sprawling Red Hill. Over the L end of the Red Hill ridge are Mt. Major, the Quarry Mtns. and Mt. Klem in the eastern half of the Belknap Range. The higher western peaks of the Belknaps – Belknap, Gunstock and Piper – are seen just to the L of Red Hill’s tower-topped summit. Extending to the R of Red Hill is a beautiful panorama of Squam Lake. Dinsmore Pond is closer in front of the L end of Squam, with Bean Hill in Northfield on the horizon. Pack Monadnock Mtn. (L),and Crotched Mtn. (R) are on the horizon over the center of the lake. Towards the R side of Squam are (L to R) the wavy crest of Hersey Mtn., with Mt. Monadnock peering over a col on its L, distant Mt. Kearsarge seen over a nearby spur of the Squam Range and East Rattlesnake, Ragged Mtn. over West Rattlesnake (with Lovewell Mtn. over its L end), and far-off Sunapee Mtn., seen over Bridgewater Mtn. just to the L of little Mt. Livermore in the Squam Range.

Summit View: The summit of Mt. Israel provides probably the finest available panorama of the Sandwich Range. This northward vista can be enjoyed from the rocky knob that is the actual summit, or from expansive sloping ledges just below to the N. On the far L, looking SW, is bald Mt. Cardigan, with distant Mt. Ascutney on the R beyond the nearer Tenney Mtn. range, which is seen over a spur of the Squam Range. Farther R is distant Salt Ash Mtn. in Vermont, and continuing to the R is the flat crest of North Moose Mtn. in Hanover, with Shrewsbury, Killington, and Pico Peaks far beyond on its L and Winslow Ledge to its R and a bit closer. Next to the R, to the W, the long ridges of (L to R) Mts. Stinson, Carr and Kineo sprawl above the nearer crests of Campton Mtn. and Mt. Weetamoo in the Campton Range. The N ridge of Smarts Mtn. peers over just to the R of Stinson’s summit, and part of Piermont Mtn. is seen through the gap between Carr and Kineo. Farther R is Mt. Cushman, then Mt. Moosilauke is seen rising impressively to the NW, with lowly Cone Mtn. below and closer. Next to the R is Sandwich Dome, the most impressive peak in the view, its huge bulk rising at the L (W) end of the Sandwich Range, just 4 mi. away to the NNW. To the L of Sandwich Dome’s double summit is Black Mtn., its ledgy shoulder. Farther L and lower is the cone of the smaller Black Mtn.. From the SW summit of Israel, Guinea Pond can be seen below the higher Black Mtn. Parts of Welch and Dickey Mtns. are seen through the col between the two Black Mtns. The level crest of the northern Flat Mtn. extends to the R of Sandwich Dome; the tips of (L to R) North Hancock, South Hancock, and Mt. Kancamagus are just seen over the gap between Sandwich and Flat. The Sandwich Range then rises to the sharp peaks of North and South Tripyramid, the latter showing its prominent South Slide. (Middle Tripyramid is hidden behind South Peak.) The remote gap of Lost Pass is seen below Tripyramid. Continuing to the R are the two rounded Sleepers (with a high, remote basin below them) and the flattish West Spur of Whiteface. The southern Flat Mtn., a wooded cone, is in front of East Sleeper. Next to the R is Mt. Whiteface, with its ledgy S summit on the R and the wooded true summit in back on the L. Farther R Mt. Passaconaway peers over a southerly spur ridge of Whiteface. Extending R from Passaconaway are its spurs, Nanamocomuck, Wonalancet Hedgehog with Hibbard Mtn. below, and Mt. Wonalancet.. Down below and close at hand in line with these spurs is conical Young Mtn. Farther R is humpy Mt. Paugus, displaying great gravelly scars on its flank. To the R of Paugus the E end of the Sandwich Range is anchored by rockbound Mt. Chocorua, seen beyond the fields of Whiteface Intervale, with the Three Sisters ridge to the L of the peaked summit and a long southerly ridge extending to the R. Part of Middle Moat Mtn. is seen through the gap between the spur ridges of Paugus and Chocorua. Sweetser wrote that as seen from Israel, Chocorua was “girded with cliffs and as sharply cut as the Matterhorn.” To the R of Chocorua’s S ridge is distant Streaked Mtn. in Maine. Farther R, broad-topped Pleasant Mtn. can be seen rising from the lowlands.

The ledges accessed via the path leading E from the summit expand the view around to the E and SE. The first, flat set of ledges has an excellent sweep of the Sandwich Range. The E-facing perch just 30 yds. farther allows you to see most of the Sandwich Range and around to part of the Lakes Region from one spot. Eastward the view opens out across a broad lowland area with Pleasant Mtn. to the ENE, and the Burnt Meadow Mtns. seen beyond a slice of Silver Lake and the range of hills in the towns of Madison and Eaton. Farther R are more distant hills to the W of Sebago Lake. To the SE is an excellent view of the Ossipee Range, with Bearcamp and Red Hill Ponds in front. On the L end of the Ossipees, a part of Green Mtn. is visible through the gap between Mt. Whittier and Bald Mtn. Mt. Shaw pokes up in the back on the R side of the range. Continuing to the R, the view swings across the Moose Mtns. and Copple Crown Mtn., the distant Blue Job Mtn. range, a large part of Lake Winnipesaukee, the sprawling Belknap Range (with Mt. Major on its L end and Belknap,Gunstock and Piper Mtns. on its R end), and Red Hill on the far R.

MOUNT PAUGUS

ELEVATIONS:

Main Summit (trailless): 3198 ft./975 m

South Summit: 3100 ft./945 m

LOCATION: Sandwich Range, Town of Albany

USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Mount Chocorua

GEOGRAPHY

Mt. Paugus is the lowest of the major peaks of the Sandwich Range, but is also one of the most rugged and interesting. Located between Mt. Chocorua to the E and Mt. Passaconaway to the W, it is a sprawling, humpy mass spotted with numerous cliffs, rock slabs and gravelly slides. Except for its NW slopes and northernmost spur, the mountain is within the Sandwich Range Wilderness. Several routes, all of them involving some rough climbing, can be used to scale this wild and intriguing mountain.

The main ridge of Paugus extends nearly 4 mi. from S to N. The true summit is a broad, densely wooded and trailless dome on the south-central part of the ridge. About 0.3 mi. to the S is the south summit, a ledgy knob reached by two trails and affording wide views of the Sandwich Range to the W and the Lakes Region to the S and partial views to the E. In a depression on the E side of the south summit is an unusual high elevation bog (at one time a small beaver pond), beside which once stood the shelter known as Old Shag Camp. The south summit drops off sharply to the S and SW, with naked ledge exposed in places. On the steep SW face at c. 2500 ft. is an impressive set of gravelly cliffs and slides overlooking the broad upper valley of Whitin Brook; these disintegrating crags are the most prominent feature of Paugus when viewed from the SW and W. To the SE of the south summit a long, flat 2560-ft. shoulder thrusts out to the S. This spur drops off in cliffs at its S end, while the crest of the ridge descends SE over two humps and ends at the confluence of Whitin Brook and Paugus Brook.

The broad, remote valley of Whitin Brook curves around the SW side of the mountain, while Paugus Brook flows S through a long, deep, straight trough along most of its eastern flank. A broad ridge descends E from the south summit into the Paugus Brook valley, dividing two deep, wild ravines carved into the eastern slopes. In the southern of these two ravines, facing SE, is a wet-weather cascade falling over a series of cliffs and ledges once known as “Paugus Falls” and described by Frank Bolles in his 1893 classic, At the North of Bearcamp Water.

In addition to the S ridge described above, several other ridges radiate from the main summit of Paugus. Just to the NW is a slightly lower wooded knob; from here two ridges descend NW into the expansive basin of Oliverian Brook, while another ridge, carrying the main crest of the Sandwich Range, curves to the SW and descends to the 2615-ft. knob known as The Overhang. Cliffs on the SE face of The Overhang drop off into the head of the Whitin Brook valley. The Lawrence Trail skirts the base of The Overhang en route to the south summit of Paugus. The ridge continues SSW to another bump known as Carrigain Outlook (2362 ft.); the view to the N has long since grown in. On the W side of this knob is Paugus Pass (2220 ft.), the low point in the range between Mt. Paugus and Wonalancet Hedgehog, a spur of Mt. Passaconaway. The long, gentle Whitin Ridge runs SSE from Carrigain Outlook to lowly, wooded Mt. Mexico (2020 ft.), forming the W side of the Whitin Brook valley. Big Rock Cave, an impressive cavern formed by a series of boulders, is located on the lower E slope of Mt. Mexico.

From the main summit, the major ridge of Mt. Paugus runs to the NE, with one spur soon branching off N into the Oliverian Brook basin. About 0.7 mi. along the NE ridge is a rounded 2820-ft. knob that bears a great rock slab on its steep SE face, a prominent landmark when Paugus is viewed from the summit of Chocorua. This cliff looks down into a deep bowl drained by a W branch of Paugus Brook.

Beyond the cliff-faced knob the NE ridge, marked by outcrops and slides on its W side, descends to a col and rises to a long, narrow, flat-topped 2724-ft. spur, the northernmost peak of Paugus. Bare granite slabs drop steeply off the E side of this spur into the upper valley of Twin Brook. From here the ridge descends N between Twin Brook on the E and Currier Brook on the W and peters out in the Albany Intervale, the broad basin of the Swift River.

A short ridge runs E from the 2724-ft. spur to a flat, nameless saddle (2220 ft.) that marks the divide in the Sandwich Range between Mt. Paugus and Mt. Chocorua; from this height-of-land Twin Brook flows N and Paugus Brook drains S.

NOMENCLATURE

Paugus has been known by many names. Its shaggy appearance led to the name Old Shag, a title preserved for many years with Old Shag Camp near the south summit. Two 1876 sources noted that the mountain was also known as Deer, Middle, Moose, Ragged, Hunchback, Frog and Bald. The name of Paugus was bestowed by the poet Lucy Larcom, a frequent visitor to the Ossipee area S of the Sandwich Range, in 1875. The name was accepted the next year by the Nomenclature Committee of the newly-formed Appalachian Mountain Club. Paugus was a Pequawket chieftain who was a great grandson of the mighty sachem Passaconaway. Known as “The Oak,” Paugus was accounted a mighty warrior and led his tribe against a company of white soldiers at the battle of Lovewell’s Pond near Fryeburg, ME in 1725. In this bloody encounter both Paugus and Capt. John Lovewell, the opposing commander, were killed.

HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS

1876: Moses Sweetser’s guidebook notes that Paugus is “chiefly composed of bare ledges, covered and flanked with blueberry-bushes. On its S.W. side is a long and singularly curving slide…..The lower ledges are much visited by the country people during the season of berries.”

1891: With help from Nathaniel Berry and other locals, naturalist and author Frank Bolles re-opens the “Lost Trail,” an ancient logging road leading up the valley of Paugus Brook, over the height-of-land between Mts. Paugus and Chocorua, and down to Albany Intervale.

1893: Bolles describes several adventures on Paugus in his book, At the North of Bearcamp Water, including ascent from Paugus Brook up ravine on E side of mountain, passing the mysterious and ephemeral Paugus Falls. “It is better armed against attack by mountain climbers than any of its neighbors,” writes Bolles about Paugus. “Its defenses consist of numerous radiating ridges covered with dense growths of spruce and crossed by belts of ‘hurricane,’ miles of cliffs so forbidding as to repel any but determined assault, and ravines choked by debris of rock and fallen forest.”

1898: Recently formed Wonalancet Out Door Club (WODC) cuts trail to Big Rock Cave and then up around S and E slopes of Paugus to south summit. Laid out in 1897 by Fred J. Bickford, trail is called Bickford Path. Obscure branch trail runs to Paugus Falls in ravine on E side of mountain.

Early 1900s: Extensive logging operation is conducted in Paugus Brook valley under several different owners. Timber is processed at Paugus Mill, where large sawdust pile is still visible today beside Bolles Trail. Huge boiler for use there is hauled in by team of 14 horses. Large trees are snubbed down from steep slopes by cable. Camps in valley include Mason’s Camp and Mudgett’s Camp; latter is still visible as clearing on Bolles Trail.

1906: Lawrence Trail is built up W ridge of Paugus for R. B. Lawrence, following audacious and precarious route up through cliffs of Overhang. About this time Cabin Trail is opened, leading up to Carrigain Outlook from S.

1908: Group splits off from WODC to form Chocorua Mountain Club (CMC). Disgruntled by what they perceive as excessive signage and blazing on trails by WODC, new club takes over maintenance on trails at E end of Sandwich Range.

1912: CMC builds camp near S summit of Paugus.

1914: WODC opens Ridge Path along Whitin Ridge.

1915: WODC builds Kelley Path in valley W of Whitin Ridge. Parts of Bolles Trail through valley E of Paugus destroyed by fire.

1916: In his Passaconaway in the White Mountains, local historian Charles Edward Beals, Jr. devotes chapter to Mt. Paugus and Paugus the chieftain. Beals laments that the mountain’s forests have been decimated by “fire, hurricane and ax.” He notes varied appearance of the mountain from various angles, praises its unusual views of Chocorua and Passaconaway, and describes kite-shaped white ledge on NW slope, still visible from Albany Intervale today.

1920: AMC Guide reports that logging has destroyed trails in vicinity of Big Rock Cave, including lower part of Bickford Path. CMC has relocated lower part of this route to Paugus, starting at Paugus Mill. Upper part of Bickford Path is combined with this relocation to create Old Paugus Trail. USFS reopens Bolles Trail and constructs Oliverian Brook Trail.

1921: CMC opens trail up valley between S ridge of Paugus and Whitin Ridge, initially named Brown Brook Trail but soon changed to Whitin Brook Trail.

1926: J. Brooks Atkinson, later to become Pulitzer Prize winner and longtime drama critic for New York Times, writes about hike over Paugus with friend “Pierre” in Skyline Promenades, engaging account of two-week backpacking trip across White Mountains. The duo spends night at Old Shag Camp. “Those who climb Paugus, less euphoniously known as Old Shag or Toadback, are by no means numerous or altogether wise,” writes Atkinson.

1934: Ridge Path is now called Mexico Ridge Trail. AMC Guide describes Currier Brook Trail, recently opened by WMNF, ascending Paugus from N. This “manway” leaves highway in Albany Intervale W of Currier Brook and follows logging roads up spur ridge, then runs over true summit to south summit. Trail is abandoned in mid-1940s.

1955: AMC Guide reports that “ ‘High Altitude’ beavers have caused havoc with a once small clear stream” near Old Shag Camp.

c. 1960: Mexico Ridge Trail abandoned due to lumbering and blowdown.

Mid-1980s: Old Shag Camp is removed.

1984: Mt. Paugus is included within newly created Sandwich Range Wilderness.

2006: Significant acreage on NW slopes of Paugus is added to Sandwich Range Wilderness. After much consideration, steep rough section of Lawrence Trail amidst cliffs of Overhang is closed due to great erosion in this area of loose rock and gravelly soil, with hiker safety a major concern. WODC crew with WMNF leader construct 0.5 mi. relocation along base of Overhang, with much easier grades and better footing.

TRAIL APPROACHES

SOUTHEAST APPROACHES from Paugus Rd. (FR68)

TRAILHEAD (900 ft.): From junction of NH 113 and NH 113A in village of Tamworth, drive N on NH 113A for 3.3 mi., then turn R on Fowler’s Mill Rd. In 1.2 mi. turn L (N) on Paugus Mill Rd. (sign) and follow it 0.8 mi. to large hiker’s parking lot at end. Alternatively, follow gravel Chocorua Lake Rd. for 3.3 mi. from NH 16 at S end of Chocorua Lake. There are three routes to Paugus from this trailhead, making various out-and-back and loop trips possible.

Brook Trail, Bolles Trail, Old Paugus Trail

6.8 mi. round trip, 2200-ft. elevation gain

This rugged route is one of the shortest approaches to Paugus. There is some steep climbing on Old Paugus Trail, with a couple of spots that can be dangerous if wet or icy. From Paugus Mill trailhead, follow Brook Trail along gravel road to N, then veer L on Bolles Trail, which provides easy strolling up old woods road through nice hemlock forest, at 0.1 mi. At 0.3 mi. trail crosses Paugus Brook – difficult at high water, but much easier since WODC trail crew placed large step stones here in 2004. (If brook is still impassable, it is possible to follow snowmobile trail from Brook Trail up to Bolles Trail about 0.2 mi. N of Bee Line Cutoff jct.; Bolles Trail can then be followed back to S with snowmobile bridges spanning two forks of Paugus Brook.) At 0.6 mi., shortly after passing snowmobile trail on L with bridge over Whitin Brook, bear L on Old Paugus Trail and quickly cross Whitin Brook, with Bickford Trail immediately splitting L. Old Paugus Trail enters Sandwich Range Wilderness and continues ahead for easy, lovely walk up hardwood-cloaked valley, recrossing brook at 1.3 mi. Moderate climb leads to jct. with Whitin Brook Trail at 1.6 mi./1550 ft.

Turn R here with Old Paugus Trail as Whitin Brook Trail continues ahead. Climb fairly steeply through hardwoods, then angle moderately up to R, passing jct. L with Big Rock Cave Trail at 1.9 mi. Farther up trail struggles up through steep, rocky gully between small cliffs – tricky if wet and potentially dangerous if icy. Trail exits gully up gravelly pitch to R, runs along base of cliff, then curls L up to spruce-wooded shoulder. After crossing shoulder, contour along side of ridge through beautiful spruce woods, then ascend to jct. R with Bee Line at 2.7 mi./2350 ft. Old Paugus Trail now ascends at fairly steep grade through brushy, ice-damaged woods almost to crest of ridge, then tackles rough, steep, ledgy section with several fairly difficult scrambles. At top of pitch (c. 2800 ft.) is fine flat, open ledge outlook to S and W, with excellent view of Ossipee Range and Lakes Region, just to R of trail.

Above outlook trail scoots up long wet, slick ledge (best negotiated along L edge), then climbs gradually through spruces. At c. 3000 ft. swing L across high spruce-wooded plateau, then dip to boggy saddle where trail turns L to cross tiny stagnant brook; here side path leads 100 ft. R to site of former Old Shag Camp near small bog. Main trail now makes steep, rough zig-zag scramble up ledges. At L turn near top of this climb, path leads 30 ft. R to stand-up view E and NE, including Mt. Chocorua. Trail then bends R, passing ledge with partial view on L, and emerges on broad, ledgy, scrubby south summit of Paugus at 3.4 mi./3100 ft., where Lawrence Trail continues ahead to NW. For best view to W, descend 50 yds. SW down ledges, first crossing ledge with broken boulders, then following overgrown path through belt of scrub to great open expanse of sloping granite. Here there is superb view W to high peaks of Sandwich Range and S over Lakes Region. Note exfoliation on lower part of ledges (use caution).

Brook Trail, Bolles Trail, Bee Line Cutoff, Bee Line Trail, Old Paugus Trail

6.8 mi. round trip, 2200-ft. elevation gain

This route from Paugus Mill avoids the lowest scramble on Old Paugus Trail, in return for a pleasant walk up the remote Paugus Brook valley and a stiff but straightforward climb up the E slope of Mt. Paugus. From trailhead, follow Brook Trail and Bolles Trail as described above. At 0.6 mi. stay straight on Bolles Trail where Bickford Trail and Old Paugus Trail diverge L, soon passing Bickford Trail also diverging on R, and, shortly, huge old sawdust pile from Paugus Mill on L. Walking is easy up old logging road through fine hardwoods, with large, tall ash trees to L. At 1.2 mi. bear L onto Bee Line Cutoff, with more easy walking and good footing. Swing R and cross tributary brook at 1.4 mi., and continue up secluded mini-valley to jct. with Bee Line Trail at 1.8 mi./1300 ft.

Turn L here, cross tributary brook again and mucky spot, and begin climbing – easy to moderate at first through open hardwoods with attractive stream and ravine on R, then at increasingly steep grade, but with reasonably good footing. Trail may be overgrown in places. Higher up, ascent is relentless through open conifers, then grade moderates in thicker woods as crest of ridge is approached. Last section leads up dry brookbed, and you reach jct. with Old Paugus Trail at 2.7 mi./2350 ft. Turn R here for 0.7 mi./750 ft. climb to south summit.

Old Paugus Trail and Bee Line Trail routes can be combined for 6.8 mi. loop.

Brook Trail, Bolles Trail, Old Paugus Trail, Whitin Brook Trail, Cabin Trail, Lawrence Trail

10.4 mi. round trip, 2700-ft. elevation gain

Loop with descent via Old Paugus Trail or Bee Line Trail route

8.6 mi. loop, 2450-ft. elevation gain

This is a varied and interesting approach to Paugus. The loop fashioned using the Lawrence Trail ascent route – now considerably easier due to a 2006 relocation - and descent by Old Paugus Trail is a rewarding all-day trek.

From Paugus Mill parking, follow Brook Trail for 0.1 mi., Bolles Trail for 0.5 mi., and Old Paugus Trail for 1.0 mi., as described above. At 1.6 mi./1550 ft., where Old Paugus Trail diverges R, stay straight on Whitin Brook Trail and continue at easy grade through hardwoods up remote, attractive valley. Trail may be obscure in places; there are occasional yellow blazes. Reach jct. where Big Rock Cave Trail crosses at 1.8 mi., then cross Whitin Brook three times in next 0.5 mi. – may be difficult at high water. Last crossing is at 2.3 mi. Trail continues up W side of broad valley, away from brook, through lovely, remote hardwood area, then swings L at arrow and climbs rather steeply up flank of Whitin Ridge through dark spruces strewn with old blowdown. At top of steep pitch, trail swings R and traverses slope at easier grade, reaching jct. with Cabin Trail at 3.2 mi./2150 ft. Turn R on Cabin Trail, which meanders briefly near crest of ridge, passing dramatic framed outlook R across Whitin Brook valley to SW cliffs and south summit of Paugus, then makes rough sidehill climb on narrow footway along E side of ridge. Grade eases and trail descends slightly to jct. with Lawrence Trail at 3.6 mi./2325 ft.

Turn R here and make angling descent through ice-damaged hardwoods to base of Overhang, with partial views through trees. At 3.9 mi./2100 ft., after losing 225 ft. of elevation, Lawrence Trail continues ahead on 2006 relocation at point where previous route turned L to begin very steep and rough climb along face of Overhang. New route features wide, smooth, gravelly sidecut footway. It descends easily, then traverses along slope well below cliffs, passing through dense, brushy ice-damaged hardwood area, skirting occasional boulders. After passing low point, new route ascends easily, passing framed side view of Paugus cliffs at 4.1 mi., then climbs moderately and swings L for series of easy switchbacks, soon passing partial view of Ossipee Range.

At 4.4 mi/2325 ft. trail turns R onto old route and crosses two small streams near headwaters of Whitin Brook. It climbs easily through birches and then quite steeply up through deep spruces. Steep climb is aided by log steps in places, though gravelly washouts are frequent, and major work is planned here by WODC. At 4.7 mi./2700 ft., at foot of granite ledge, is framed view W to Mt. Whiteface. Trail abruptly eases at ca. 2850 ft. and swings R for traverse, then L for easy climbing through wild spruce forest. Dip to cross small brook, then make mostly easy angling climb to ledges of south summit, reached at 5.2 mi./3100 ft. Old Paugus Trail continues ahead here. For best views to W, descend SW through belt of scrub to more open ledges. (Descending Lawrence Trail, look for path on NW side of ledge opening atop S summit; sign is set back a few yds. in woods.)

Southwest Approaches from Wonalancet

The extensive network of WODC trails makes possible several approaches from the hamlet of Wonalancet. Two routes can be used from trailhead for Cabin Trail (elevation 1060 ft.; parking on S side of road) on NH 113A 0.5 mi. E of its sharp turn near Wonalancet chapel.

One route follows Cabin Trail to Lawrence Trail. Cabin Trail follows driveway for 60 yds., then bears R onto second driveway and follows it for 120 yds. and continues ahead into woods on older road. Bear L at 0.3 mi. where Big Rock Cave Trail splits R by WMNF boundary markers. In another 0.1 mi. Cabin Trail bears R as unmarked path diverges L. Cabin Trail now makes long, gentle climb through hardwoods, then steadier grade leads up through spruce and birch to top of ridge. After following crest briefly, it dips to junction with Whitin Brook Trail at 2.2 mi./2150 ft. Route then follows Cabin Trail another 0.5 mi. and Lawrence Trail for 1.5 mi. as described above. Total for this route is 8.4 mi. round trip, 2600-ft. elevation gain.

Another route follows Cabin Trail for 0.3 mi., then Big Rock Cave Trail for steady ascent through hardwoods to flat, wooded summit of Mt. Mexico, reached at 1.4 mi./2020 ft. After crossing broad crest, trail descends easily, then rather steeply through sprucier woods to interesting Big Rock Cave at 1.9 mi./1700 ft. Cave, formed by huge boulders, is on R and is large enough to easily walk through. Big Rock Cave Trail continues down steeply, crosses Whitin Brook at 2.0 mi., and rises to meet Old Paugus Trail at 2.4 mi./1720 ft. Turn L and follow Old Paugus Trail for 1.5 mi. to south summit. This route is 7.8 mi. round trip with 2850-ft. elevation gain.

Loop trip with ascent via Cabin and Lawrence Trails and descent via Old Paugus, Big Rock Cave and Cabin Trails is 8.1 mi. with 2700-ft. elevation gain.

Yet another possibility is from Ferncroft trailhead (large parking area off Ferncroft Rd., 0.5 mi. from NH 113A, elevation 1140 ft.) via Kelley Trail and Lawrence Trail. Branching R from Old Mast Road, 0.3 mi. from trailhead, Kelley Trail climbs easily for 0.2 mi., turns R onto grassy logging road and descends gradually for 0.1 mi., then turns L into woods. It climbs along Cold Brook, rises through hardwoods on slope high above stream, then rejoins brook at top of small cascade. Kelley Trail now climbs up very scenic ravine through old-growth spruce and hemlock forest, crossing brook or its dry bed three times. In upper section it passes small gorges formed by post Ice Age waterfalls, now dry. Footing is slippery in places along brookbed. Most dramatic spot is “Pleistocene Plunge Pool,” bowl-shaped amphitheater reached at 1.9 mi. From here trail makes fairly steep climb, then passes through narrow cut to meet Lawrence Trail in Paugus Pass at 2.3 mi./2220 ft. Turn R on Lawrence Trail for moderate, then easy climb along side of Carrigain Outlook, reaching jct. R with Cabin Trail at 2.6 mi./2325 ft. Continue 1.5 mi. on Lawrence Trail to south summit of Paugus as described above. Total is 8.2 mi. round trip with 2400-ft. elevation gain.

North Approaches from Kancamagus Highway (NH 112)

Two approaches, much longer than those from the S, can be made from the Kancamagus Highway to the N. Longer and easier route starts at trailhead for Oliverian Brook Trail (on short side road, 1.0 mi. W of jct. with Bear Notch Rd.) and follows Oliverian Brook Trail for 4.4 mi. at mostly easy grades, steadier near end, up lovely, isolated valley between Mt. Paugus and Mt. Passaconaway. Trail starts up gravel road, soon turns L into woods, and in 100 yds. turns R onto old logging road. Bear R onto old logging railroad grade at 0.6 mi. and follow it for 0.5 mi. Easy grades continue up along Oliverian Brook on old logging road to jct. R with Passaconaway Cutoff at 1.9 mi. Here trail enters Sandwich Range Wilderness and meanders through remote, beautiful mixed forest, crossing tributary brook at 2.2 mi. and then main brook at 2.7 mi. In next section there are some glimpses of Square Ledge cliff to R. Oliverian Brook Trail crosses another tributary, passes Square Ledge Branch Trail on R at 3.3 mi., soon crosses main brook and ascends moderately through ice-damaged hardwood forest to meet Lawarence Trail and Kelley Trail in Paugus Pass at 4.4 mi./2220 ft.; turn L here and follow Lawrence Trail 1.8 mi. to south summit of Paugus, as described above. Round trip is 12.4 mi. with 2300-ft. elevation gain.

Shorter but more arduous route, with nearly 1000 ft. of climbing on return trip, starts at trailhead for Champney Falls Trail, 1.6 mi. E of jct. with Bear Notch Rd. Follow Champney Falls Trail for 0.1 mi., then bear R on Bolles Trail, which climbs moderately up valley of Twin Brook, crossing stream 11 times. Stiff climb at head of valley leads to height-of-land at 2.0 mi./2220 ft. Trail crosses flat saddle, then descends steadily S through ice-damaged hardwoods into upper valley of Paugus Brook. At bottom of long descent, trail levels out on broad floor of remote valley, crosses sandy area, weaves through old Mudgett’s logging camp clearing grown to raspberries and crosses brook at 3.1 mi. Continue gradual descent down valley to Bee Line Trail at 3.7 mi./1300 ft. Turn R onto Bee Line, cross Paugus Brook, and climb over small ridge to jct. L with Bee Line Cutoff at 3.9 mi. Follow Bee Line and Old Paugus Trail another 1.6 mi. to south summit, as described above. Total is 11.0 mi. round trip with 3800-ft. elevation gain.

WINTER

Mt. Paugus is a tough nut in winter and is seldom climbed. The gully scramble partway up Old Paugus Trail tends to ice up and can be dangerous, making this an undesirable route. The steep pitches on the upper Lawrence Trail could also be challenging in winter, though the 2006 relocation has made that route considerably easier. Perhaps the best approach is the Bolles/Bee Line combination from the S. The long climb up Bee Line Trail is grueling on snowshoes, but presents no major technical difficulties. You still have to deal with a series of steep scrambles above the Bee Line/Old Paugus jct. Crampons should be carried in case ice is encountered. Add about 0.6 mi. each way for walking up Paugus Mill Rd., which is plowed only about 0.2 mi. from Fowler’s Mill Rd., with parking for several cars next to a house.

VIEW GUIDE

South Summit, West View: This is the finest view from the trails on Paugus, featuring a striking close-up of the higher Sandwich Range peaks and a wide vista over the Lakes Region. From the junction of the Old Paugus and Lawrence Trails, descend SW 50 yds. on ledges and along an overgrown path through a patch of scrub to a large open expanse of sloping, sun-washed granite. These ledges are perfect for lunching and snoozing.

The most arresting sight is the great wooded cone of Mt. Passaconaway, only 3 mi. away just N of W and marked by a gravelly slide on its slope. In front of and well below Passaconaway you have a rare head-on look at the sheer cliff of Square Ledge. To the R of Passaconaway the crest of East Osceola and part of the main Osceola summit can be seen above the flat top of The Fool Killer. Mt. Kancamagus is to the far R, with North Kinsman off its R slope. Through the trees Mts. Liberty and Flume can be spotted above the W spur of Mt. Huntington. To Passaconaway’s L the long steep-sided crest of Mt. Whiteface rises behind the nearer wooded humps of Nanamocomuck Peak (R) and Wonalancet Hedgehog (L). Below Hedgehog you can see the wooded cliffs of The Overhang watching over the valley of Whitin Brook. Hibbard Mtn. juts out behind and L of Hedgehog, with Sandwich Dome seen farther away behind the S ridge of Whiteface. The southern Flat Mtn. can be spotted under the ridge extending L from Sandwich. Next to the L and closer is the round dome of Mt. Wonalancet, with part of the Campton Range beyond. Tenney Mtn., with its ski trails, is seen over the L end of the Campton Range, with Cattaloochee Mtn. and the tip of Vermont’s Mt. Ascutney behind.

Continuing to the L, the view now sweeps beyond the nearby low Whitin Ridge and over the lowlands of central New Hampshire to distant peaks. Sprawling Mt. Cardigan is on the horizon to the L of Wonalancet, then you see the nearer and very prominent Mt. Israel, with the Squam Range behind on the R and Forbes Mtn. and the Bridgewater range behind on its L. To the L of Israel a broad gap opens, revealing Squam Lake; in the distance (R to L) are Sunapee Mtn., Ragged Mtn., Lovewell Mtn., Mt. Kearsarge and Hersey Mtn. The elongated crest of Red Hill sprawls across to the L of Squam. On clear days distant Mt. Monadnock can be espied to the R of Red Hill’s summit, and on the horizon over Red Hill’s long eastern spur are (R to L) Crotched Mtn., North Pack Monadnock and the Lyndeborough Mtns. In the foreground the fields of Wonalancet are seen in line with Red Hill. On the horizon to the L of Red Hill are Bean Hill and the distant twin Uncanoonucs. Seen closer in this direction are several parts of Lake Winnipesaukee, with Gunstock and Belknap Mtns. to its L. On the far L is the jumbled Ossipee Range, with the sharp Black Snout on the R, Mt. Shaw (the highest) in the center, and Bald Mtn. and Mt. Whittier on the L. Great Hill Pond is in the foreground, in line with Black Snout, and Copple Crown Mtn. is visible beyond Mt. Whittier.

South Summit, East View: This stand-up view is found a short distance down Old Paugus Trail a few yards to the N of the trail. It features an impressive broadside vista of Mt. Chocorua, with the sharp rock peak on the R and the Three Sisters ridge to the L. Distant peaks visible to the L of the Sisters include Black Cap, Hurricane, South and Middle Moat, and Kearsarge North, with peaks near Rumford, ME popping up on the horizon.

South Outlook on Old Paugus Trail: This fine flat ledge perch at c. 2800 ft. overlooks the Lakes Region and part of the Sandwich Range. On the far L, looking SE, is Chocorua Lake. To its R are Silver Lake (L) and Ossipee Lake (R) with Green Mtn. beyond. To the S, beyond the flat shoulder of Paugus in the foreground, is a fine view of the broad-spreading Ossipee Range, with Mt. Shaw set back left-of-center and the sharp peak of the northern Black Snout on the R. The lower Nickerson Mtns. are set apart from the Ossipees on the L; the Moose Mtns. and Copple Crown Mtn. are seen in the distance between them. The paired Belknap (L) and Gunstock (R) Mtns. appear over the slope to the R of Black Snout, with Great Hill Pond seen in the foreground just above the lower S spur of Paugus. Farther R Lake Winnipesaukee is seen through a broad lowland gap, with distant Bean Hill and sprawling Red Hill to the R. On clear days the Lyndeborough Mtns., North Pack Monadnock and Crotched Mtn. can be spotted over the long E spur of Red Hill, and the dim shape of Mt. Monadnock can be made out just to the R of Red Hill’s summit. Squam Lake is to the R of Red Hill, with Hersey Mtn., Mt. Kearsarge, Lovewell Mtn., Ragged Mtn. and Sunapee Mtn. beyond. Mt. Israel (with the Bridgewater range and Forbes Mtn. on its L and the Squam Range on its R) and Mt. Cardigan (with Tenney Mtn. under Mt. Cattaloochee on its R) are to the SW, and on the far R the view swings around to Mt. Wonalancet, Sandwich Dome and the S summit of Mt. Whiteface.

POTASH MOUNTAIN

ELEVATION: 2700 ft./823 m

LOCATION: Sandwich Range, Town of Waterville Valley

USGS MAP: 7 ½’ Mount Tripyramid

GEOGRAPHY

Potash is a small, ledgy peak with steep, spruce-wooded sides and a flat top, poking up on the N side of the Sandwich Range. It is an excellent half-day hike, since its mostly open summit offers wide views in several directions. The views of the northern ridges and valleys of the Sandwich Range are especially notable. Potash is situated at the end of a ridge four miles long that extends NE from the East Sleeper and its summit is at the edge of the Sandwich Range Wilderness. The mountain is bordered by two long valleys - Sabbaday Brook on the W, with the ridges of The Fool Killer beyond, and Downes Brook on the E, beyond which is Hedgehog Mtn. Sabbaday Falls is at the NW base of the mountain. To the N of Potash is Albany Intervale, the broad valley of the Swift River. To the S, a long, flat saddle connects Potash with a nameless and trailless spruce-covered knob (2760 ft.), then the ridgecrest continues several more miles to East Sleeper.

Visitors to the Albany Intervale have noted Potash as a distinctive landmark for many years. “The Potash is a singular little mountain, whose top and sides are composed of coarse white granite, rendering it a conspicuous object even when seen from a great distance,” wrote Moses Sweetser in his 1876 guidebook. In 1916 local historian Charles Edward Beals, Jr. wrote that “..its steepness, shape and bare ledges give it an imposing distinctiveness.”

In addition to the extensive ledges around its summit, Potash offers a south-facing outlook on a flat NE shoulder (2200 ft.). This shoulder is traversed by the Mount Potash Trail as it ascends to the summit. An unusual feature of Potash is a “balanced rock” on the SE side of the summit area. In the early 1900s this was easily rocked, but it is more solidly situated today [?] and is seldom seen since the trail has been relocated away from it.

NOMENCLATURE

According to Beals, Potash is named “for its resemblance to an inverted potash kettle.” In earlier times kettles were used to make potash, or potassium carbonate, a substance extracted from wood ashes. The name was used in the mid-1870s by Prof. Charles H. Hitchcock during his geological survey of New Hampshire. On the current USGS map it is given as “Potash Mtn.,” though the trail to its summit is known as the Mount Potash Trail.

HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS

1837: First road is completed from Conway up Swift River valley into Albany Intervale.

1876: Moses Sweetser’s guide notes that Potash is “easily visited” from he Albany Intervale. “The prospect to the N. and N.E. is broad and interesting, and amply repays the labor of the ascent.”

1906-1916: Logging operation of Swift River Railroad cuts great quantities of timber in Albany Intervale. Railroad runs along N base of Potash. Lumber roads extend up valleys of Downes Brook and Sabbaday Brook.

1916: Charles Edward Beals, Jr. describes Potash in his Passaconaway in the White Mountains. He notes path to summit, balanced rock near top, superb wilderness views, and abundant blueberries (and bears!).

1916-1917: 2^nd and 3^rd editions of AMC Guide report that old trail has been destroyed by lumbering. Trampers can bushwhack through slash to NE shoulder and pick up path, or ascend from W from logging roads above Sabbaday Brook.

1920: AMC Guide notes that old path has been relocated along logging roads to NE shoulder, from where previous route can be followed.

1922: Relocated section of trail is already obscure, but new trail leaves Downes Brook lumber road ¼ mi. from highway.

1931: Trail to Potash has been adopted by Passaconaway Mountain Club.

1940: Trail now maintained by WMNF.

1945: WMNF abandons Potash trail, but it remains clear and blazed through 1950s, and official maintenance resumes in 1960s.

Early 1990s: Upper section of Mount Potash Trail relocated; formerly went up E side of cone, now circles around S side and ascends from that direction. New parking lot constructed at trailhead.

TRAIL APPROACH

NORTHEAST APPROACH from Kancamagus Highway (NH 112)

Downes Brook Tail, Mount Potash Trail

4.4 mi. round trip, 1450-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (1250 ft.): The sole trail approach to Potash starts from large hiker’s parking lot for UNH, Mount Potash and Downes Brook Trails, located at end of short side road off S side of Kancamagus Highway across from Passaconaway Campground. This is 2.0 mi. W of jct. with Bear Notch Rd.

The ascent of Potash is a solid half-day hike with steady climbing and some rocky footing and steep ledgy climbing near the top. Crossing of Downes Brook near the start can be difficult and even hazardous in high water; at such times alternate approach can be made via WMNF logging road that leaves the Kancamagus Highway 0.6 mi. W of trailhead side road. Do not block gate when parking. Mount Potash Trail crosses this road 0.7 mi. from parking lot; distance either way is about the same.

From parking lot, follow Downes Brook Trail N on old garvel road beyond kiosk and gate. UNH Trail immediately diverges L, and in 100 yds., at top of hill, Downes Brook Trail turns R off road and traverses to W above old gravel pit and enters woods. At 0.25 mi. turn L onto old route of trail, and at

0.3 mi. turn R onto Mount Potash Trail (sign). This trail runs level for 0.1 mi., then crosses wide Downes Brook – difficult in high water. Beyond brook it rises easily through hardwood forest and crosses WMNF gravel logging road at 0.7 mi.

Mount Potash Trail then meanders W through nice hardwoods, climbing at gentle grade. At 1.2 mi. trail turns sharp L and zigzags up through deep hemlock woods. Footway becomes ledgy and rooty as climb leads up into spruces. At 1.5 mi. bear L onto relocated section, which soon turns R and climbs to sunny outlook ledge on NE shoulder at 1.6 mi./2200 ft. Here there is good view SE to looming hulk of Mt. Passaconaway, with ledges of Downes Brook Slide prominent on lower slope. To R is long look up Downes Brook valley to its headwaters between Mt. Whiteface and East Sleeper. Around corner to L is outlook E to Bear Mtn., the Moat Range, Maine’s Pleasant Mtn., Swift River valley and Mt. Chocorua.

Trail re-enters woods beyond ledge, meanders past ledge with restricted view, and runs nearly level across shoulder through deep spruce woods. Steady climbing soon resumes on rocky footway, and at 1.9 mi. trail angles L (indicated by arrow) off steeper original route for rough, rocky traverse across S slope of summit cone. At 2.1 mi. emerge atop open slabs with views S up Downes Brook valley and SE and E to Mt. Passaconaway, Mt. Paugus, Hedgehog Mtn., Mt. Chocorua & The Sisters, Pleasant Mtn. in Maine, and South Moat. Trail crosses sloping ledges and soon makes sharp R turn and climbs steeply up open granite slabs on S side of summit, with more good views back to S. Use caution here in wet or icy conditions. Continue up over ledges and through scrub, emerging on ledgy, flat-topped summit at 2.2 mi./2700 ft. Fine outlook ledges are found to L looking S and W, and additional views to N can be gained by exploring summit in that direction.

WINTER

Potash is an excellent intermediate snowshoe hike. The parking area at the trailhead is plowed. The Downes Brook crossing can be difficult if not well-frozen. There is some sidehilling and steep ledgy climbing on the upper section of the trail that could be difficult in severely hardpacked or icy conditions.

VIEW GUIDE

The open summit ledges on the W side of the summit offer unobstructed views to the S, W and NW. By exploring around the summit you can find additional views to the N. Potash is surrounded on all sides by higher mountains. The close-in views of the Sandwich Range high peaks contrast with more distant vistas north to Mt. Carrigain and many other summits.

Prof. Joshua H. Huntington wrote this of the view he obtained from Potash while working on the N.H. Geological Survey in the 1870s: “…In full view, Mt. Carrigian stands in all its massive grandeur, while N. and S. there are sharp peaks and mountain-ridges. Still to the N., and yet not so far distant that each peak and mountain-ridge stands in sharp outline, the White Mts. rise in successive culminations, until Mt. Washington – monarch of the range – seems to touch the sky.”

Looking S, Potash faces into a great horseshoe of mountains in the Sandwich Range Wilderness. On the far L and close at hand is the great wooded cone of Mt. Passaconaway. Southward a ridge connects Passaconaway with the long, humpy crest of Mt. Whiteface, scarred by a large gravel slide dropping into the Downes Brook valley. Extending S from Potash is a long, knobby ridge leading to East Sleeper; to the R is the rounded dome of West Sleeper, with a broad basin between them. The sharp peaks of South and Middle Tripyramid are to the R of the Sleepers at the head of the valley of Sabbaday Brook. North Tripyramid is detached to the R, rising above the flat-topped ridge of The Fool Killer, which is seen across the lower Sabbaday Brook valley. Tripyramid’s Scaur Peak thrusts above the col between The Fool Killer and its northern spur, which is marked by a prominent rock slab.

To the R of Scaur Peak are rugged Mt. Osceola (L) and its flat-topped East Peak (R). Farther R and nearer is the rounded and bulky Mt. Kancamagus. Next to the R is the upper Swift River valley, with several stretches of the Kancamagus Highway visible. The various ridges of Mt. Huntington sprawl on the far side of the valley to the NW. Over the cliff-faced West Peak of Huntington are the tops of Mts. Flume and Liberty, with Whaleback Mtn.’s ridge to the L. To the R of Huntington is the great mass of Mt. Hancock, showing two bowl-shaped cirques on the S side of its long E ridge. To the R of Hancock is the mighty Mt. Carrigain, with the cliff-faced nubble of The Captain between them. Distant ridges can be seen on either side of The Captain – Mt. Guyot’s NE ridge to the L and Zealand Mtn. to the R. Projecting to the R from Carrigain is the notched Vose Spur, with Mts. Lowell and Anderson farther R, on the E side of Carrigain Notch. Mt. Tom is seen through the portal of the notch. Mt. Nancy is to the R of Anderson, and through the saddle between them Mt. Willey’s cone is seen. In front of Lowell/Anderson/Nancy, just across the valley, is the long rocky face of Green’s Cliff. The notched summit of Mt. Bemis is to the R of Nancy.

By poking around ledges on the N side of the summit, one can find additional views in that direction. To the R of Mt. Bemis the southern Presidential ridge leads up over Mts. Jackson, Pierce, Eisenhower and craggy Monroe to Mt. Washington. Mt. Jefferson can be seen to the L of Monroe. From the front edge of these N ledges, Mt. Tremont and Owls Cliff can be seen to the R of Washington with part of Church Pond below and the distant Wildcats and Carter Dome farther R.

SANDWICH DOME (SANDWICH MOUNTAIN)

ELEVATIONS:

Sandwich Dome: 3980 ft./1213 m

Black Mountain: 3500 ft./1067 m

Jennings Peak: 3460 ft./1055 m

Noon Peak: 2976 ft./907 m

LOCATION: W end of Sandwich Range, Towns of Sandwich and Waterville Valley

USGS MAPS: 7 ½ ‘ Mount Tripyramid, 7 ½’ Waterville Valley

GEOGRAPHY

The immense mountain mass known as Sandwich Dome is the highest White Mountain peak below 4000 ft., and in terms of trails, views and variety of terrain it surpasses many a 4000-footer. Its sprawling bulk anchors the SW end of the Sandwich Range and is a commanding presence around the towns of Waterville Valley and Sandwich. It is flanked by the Mad River and Waterville Valley on the NW, the irregular pass of Sandwich Notch on the SW, the two Flat Mountains to the NE and E, and a swampy, pond-rich lowland stretching across to Mt. Israel on the S.

The mountain has been accessible by trail since the 1850s and has long been a favored climb for those who frequent this region. There are good views from the summit and three subsidiary peaks, and scenic trail approaches can be made from several directions. Most of the mountain is in the Sandwich Range Wilderness. This is a peak worthy of repeated visits.

The main summit of Sandwich Dome is heavily wooded and consists of two small rounded peaks of similar elevation; Waterville Valley historian Nathaniel Goodrich admired “the smooth beauty of the twin domes” as seen from that town. Only the slightly higher SW knob is accessible by trail. At its top is an uplifted ledge where the trees part for an excellent vista N to the high peaks of the Whites.

From the summit, great ridges are splayed out in several directions. One ridge descends NNW to the sharp knob known as Jennings Peak (3460 ft.). This nubble is a prominent feature of the mountain when viewed from the N, W and S. On its S side Jennings drops off in bright granite cliffs above the upper valley of Smarts Brook; a spur trail leads to excellent views S and E at the top. Two major ridges extend down from Jennings. To the NE one curving crest descends gradually to Noon Peak (2976 ft.), which has a sheer E face overlooking the valley of Drakes Brook; there are two good outlooks facing E and N near its summit along the Sandwich Mountain Trail. From Noon Peak this ridge swings NW and descends rather steeply to the Mad River, with the S ridges of Mt. Tecumseh across the valley. Drakes Brook takes its rise high on the N slope of the main Sandwich summit and flows down through a deep ravine between the Jennings-Noon ridge and part of the northern Flat Mtn. The NW slopes of Noon are drained by Dry Brook, a short tributary of the Mad River.

From Jennings Peak another prominent crest known as Acteon Ridge runs to the W over several lower ledgy peaks. On its S side this trailless ridge encloses the broad, remote and beautiful valley of Smarts Brook. Sachem Peak (2860 ft.), which one early writer described as “Chocorua in miniature,” is just to the W of Jennings. It has a narrow, rocky crest and sheer granite cliffs on its S face. The ridge continues W over a nameless 2489-ft.peak and ends at Bald Knob (2300 ft.), which is spotted with numerous ledges. Just across the Mad River valley to the NW from Bald Knob are the familiar ledgy peaks of Welch and Dickey Mtns .The N slopes of Acteon Ridge are drained into the Mad River by High Brook and a nameless brook.

Looming on the S side of the Smarts Brook valley is the great SW ridge of Sandwich Dome, traversed by the Algonquin Trail. This descends gradually from the main summit, then rises 150 ft. to bulky, flat-topped Black Mtn. (3500 ft.), the higher of two adjacent peaks that go by that name. Numerous rough ledges are bared on Black’s steep S and W sides, perhaps the result of ancient forest fires. As a result, the rugged trails that ascend this spur offer extensive views to the E, S and W. The dark metamorphic rock found here and at the main summit contrast with the light-colored granite of Jennings and Sachem Peaks. From the higher Black the ridge drops steeply to a 2580-ft. col, then rises over a conical 2732-ft, peak also known as Black Mtn., with ledges on its S face but no trail to the top. From here the SW ridge descends over a flat knob to the NW end of Sandwich Notch, which separates the Sandwich massif from the much lower and trailless Campton Range to the SW; through this gap runs the narrow, rough Sandwich Notch Rd.

At the base of the SW ridge, not far from the road, is tiny, boggy Atwood Pond (1500 ft.). Just to the S, set at the base of the Campton Range, are the three attractive Hall Ponds – Upper, Middle and Lower. At the S base of the higher Black Mtn. is 6-acre Black Mountain Pond (2220 ft.), the prettiest of all the ponds in the Sandwich Dome/Sandwich Notch area. From this crystal-clear tarn Black Mtn. looms as a great wall speckled with ledge and scrub. Here the Beebe River takes its rise, flowing S down to a swampy plateau beneath several low, ill-defined spurs of Black Mtn.. In this region are Guinea Pond and Kiah Pond (SSE and SW of Black Mountain Pond, respectively) and numerous beaver ponds and meadows. Just S of Guinea Pond is 2630-ft. Mt. Israel.

Between Black Mtn. and the summit of Sandwich Dome on the S is a broad basin drained by the headwaters of the Cold River. This stream flows down into a large beaver pond/swamp just to the SE of Black Mountain Pond, guarded on the S by a pair of low knobs. It then descends to the S and eventually flows E to the Bearcamp River in Tamworth. The E side of the upper Cold River basin is enclosed by the massive, darkly wooded SE ridge of Sandwich Dome, a prominent feature of the mountain when seen from the E and S. This spur has a minor 3620-ft. peak not quite reached by the Gleason Trail. To the N of this is another spur with a flat 3000-ft. shoulder that projects NE, then E from the Dome’s lower summit knob. Between these spurs is a deep ravine drained by a tributary of Pond Brook. Another tributary emanates from a beaver pond tucked into a high basin between the Dome’s NE spur and the SW knobs of the northern Flat Mtn. Pond Brook itself descends from the ¾ mile swath of Flat Mountain Pond (2320 ft.), plunging over Great Falls and other unnamed cascades. Flat Mountain Pond is a backcountry beauty nestled on a high, remote plateau NE of Sandwich Dome, bordered by the two trailless Flat Mountains. The Flat Mtn. on the SE is a rounded, birch-clad 2940-ft. dome. The one NW of the pond is a sprawling, humpy ridge with several summits; the highest (3331 ft.) is at the NE end. This Flat’s ledgy SW peak is separated from the Dome by a 2780-ft. col, in which a small flume is reputedly hidden. Once devastated by logging and fire, the ridges on the S and E sides of Sandwich Dome and the pond country below them now comprise some of the wildest terrain in the Sandwich Range Wilderness.

NOMENCLATURE

The original name for Sandwich Dome, used for many years by local residents, was Black Mountain. That changed when the geographer Arnold Guyot published his map of the White Mountains in 1860. Since there were numerous Black Mountains in New Hampshire, he applied the name Sandwich Dome to the massive peak that straddles the towns of Sandwich and Waterville Valley. A decade and a half later the name was utilized by Charles H. Hitchcock’s state geological survey, and Moses Sweetser “gratefully adopted” it for his 1876 guidebook., reasoning that the mountain is the most conspicuous peak in Sandwich and that from the lake country to the S it appears as a flattened dome. Charles E. Fay, the AMC’s first president, disagreed with the nomenclature change and argued his case in Appalachia. Fay noted that Black was a traditional local name, that the only current path to the summit was from Waterville, and that the mountain does not look like a dome from that side. In 1910 the U.S. Board on Geographic Names made Sandwich Mountain the official name and bestowed Black Mountain on the SW shoulder. The current USGS maps show both the Sandwich Mountain and Sandwich Dome names around the summit, and place Black Mtn. on the lower 2732-ft. SW spur.

Charles E. Fay named the Acteon Ridge after the last chief, or sachem, of the Pemigewasset Indian tribe. He also called the highest summit on the ridge Sachem Peak. Jennings Peak was named for “Captivity” Jennings, a baby girl who was kidnapped by Indians and taken to Canada, later to be ransomed. It was also once known as Dennisons Peak, after an early settler. Noon Peak was named by early Waterville residents because at that time of day the sun rides high above this prominent spur. Drakes Brook was named after a family who settled in Waterville in the mid-1800s and operated a mill on the Mad River just N of their namesake brook.

HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS

1803: First crude road is built through Sandwich Notch on SW side of mountain.

1850s: Under direction of innkeeper Nathaniel Greeley, trail is built to Sandwich Dome up valley of Smarts Brook, though not exactly on route of today’s Smarts Brook Trail. This is part of early network of trails built by Greeley around Waterville.

1876: Moses Sweetser’s guidebook devotes 5 pages to Sandwich Dome, adding another 1 ½ pages in later editions. Of this, 3 ½ pages are devoted to describing the view from the bald summit, “one of the grandest and most fascinating panoramas in New England.” Book notes that an old bridle path from Sandwich side was once a favored route to summit, but is getting overgrown. Sweetser gives detailed description of Greeley’s trail up via Smarts Brook, also somewhat neglected, ending with strenuous push through dense conifers to attain open summit, where there is beacon from U.S. Coast Survey. In preparing guidebook, Sweetser and Joshua H. Huntington, assistant state geologist, ascended trail up Smarts Brook and bushwhacked down to village of Sandwich.

1876: Charles E. Fay recounts two excursions up mountain in Appalachia. On first trip he ascends alone via bushwhack route from Sandwich and descends trail down via Smarts Brook. A Mr. Anthony accompanies him on second trip, ascending via the path, then battling their way down the SW ridge and over the two Black Mtns. “This method of descent offers nearly every variety of style and difficulty,” including blowdown, tangled growth, and easy bare ledge sections.

1879: AMC members including Arthur L. Goodrich lay out new trail from Waterville to summit over Noon-Jennings Peak ridge. Describing new path in Appalachia, Webster Wells writes, “I think we may regard it as by far the most interesting excursion in the neighborhood of Waterville, and one of the most delightful in the whole mountain region.”

1891: Charles E. Fay, J. Rayner Edmands and two others undertake three-day excursion from Whiteface Intervale over Mts. Whiteface and Tripyramid to Waterville, then up Sandwich via the AMC trail and bushwhacking down S slope of mountain “through the finest spruce growth that I know of in the whole Sandwich Range.”

1892: Group of AMC snowhoers makes what may be first winter ascent of mountain.

1902: Algonquin Trail is built up SW ridge by boys from Camp Algonquin.

1911: Appalachia reports that old trail from Joses Bri

dge on Bennett St. in Sandwich, once a bridle path, has been reopened as AMC trail by Lewis Elliott. Path was originally cut, and log camp built, decades before by Alonzo McCrillis and Alvah Webster.

1916: 2^nd edition of AMC Guide describes Low Trail, built by Woods Low; it ascends from Bennett St., passes by Great Fall on Pond Brook, and joins AMC trail below summit. Lower part of Algonquin Trail has been “cut to pieces by lumbering.” AMC trail from Waterville is said to be “covered with some of the beautiful mosses in the White Mountains” beyond Noon Peak. Guide also mentions bushwhack route via Acteon Ridge, which “affords many outlooks and much variety of going.” Hale Path, opened by boys from Camp Hale, leads up Pond Brook to Flat Mountain Pond.

1917: Construction is begun on Beebe River logging railroad, extending 21 mi. from Pemigewasset River in Campton up Beebe River, along S side of Sandwich Dome and on to Flat Mountain Pond. Heavy logging ensues on S and E slopes of Dome.

1921: New trail opened to Noon-Jennings ridge up Drakes Brook valley by A. McC. Mathewson and others. Algonquin Trail re-cleared and lower end partly relocated; upper part traverses “treeless Bald Ridge.”

1923: Fire in wake of logging scorches 3500 acres in Flat Mountain Pond area; one firefighter dies. Later, extensive birch forest grows in this area.

1925: AMC Guide reports that upper part of Low Trail has been obliterated by logging.

1937: Squam Lakes Association reopens neglected Algonquin Trail. A.A. Gleason of AMC reopens old trail from Joses Bridge. AMC adopts this as Gleason Trail, but 1938 hurricane obliterates it. About this time Forest Service reopens original trail up mountain via Smarts Brook as Smarts Brook Trail, though not exactly on former route.

1950: Mrs. George Mead donates 2443-acre tract to White Mountain National Forest, including area around Black Mountain Pond.

1954: Gleason Trail reopened under direction of Edwin Vose. Ridge section of Algonquin Trail badly damaged by hurricane. Guinea Pond Trail has been opened along bed of Beebe River logging RR. Mead Trail (later named Black Mountain Pond Trail) has been built from RR bed up to Black Mountain Pond and thence up steep slope of Black Mtn. to Algonquin Trail. Shelter has been built near E shore of pond.

1960s: Black Mountain Pond Trail relocated along W shore of pond and new shelter built.

1984: Most of Sandwich Dome is included in new Sandwich Range Wilderness.

1996: Shelter removed from Black Mountain Pond.

2006: Sandwich Range Wilderness is expanded to include areas S and SE of Black Mountain Pond and N and NW of Noon and Jennings Peaks.

TRAIL APPROACHES

The trails leading up to Sandwich Dome are varied and scenic. The Sandwich Mountain Trail provides several good vistas and a beautiful ridge walk, with a loop option via Drakes Brook Trail. The Smarts Brook Trail offers a long walk up a remote valley. Ledge scrambling and abundant views are found on the Algonquin Trail. The Bennett Street and Gleason Trails offer another loop opportunity with miles of wild high elevation forest.

NORTHWEST APPROACHES from NH 49

TRAILHEAD (1420 FT.): From this trailhead near the village of Waterville Valley, one may climb Sandwich Dome via the Sandwich Mountain Trail only, via the Drakes Brook Trail and upper Sandwich Mountain Trail, or with a loop combining both. Mileages for all options include 0.4 mi./100 ft. for side trip to Jennings Peak. Parking area for both trails is on E side of NH 49, 10.2 mi. N of Exit 28 off I-93 and 0.4 mi. S of jct. with Tripoli Rd. (access road to Mt. Tecumseh Ski Area).

Sandwich Mountain Trail

Noon Peak, Jennings Peak and Sandwich Dome

8.2 mi. round trip, 2700-ft. elevation gain

Noon Peak and Jennings Peak

6.0 mi. round trip, 2100-ft. elevation gain

Noon Peak only

3.4 mi. round trip, 1600-ft. elevation gain

This attractive trail features several good viewpoints, nice woods and fine ridge walking. It begins with a stiff climb, then meanders up the ridge with several views en route to Jennings Peak. From parking area, follow footway along edge of field, skirt to L of fenced power station, and drop steeply L down bank to cross Drakes Brook (can be difficult at high water; this can be avoided by walking S on NH 49 across bridge over brook, then bushwhacking 0.1 mi. back to trail on far side.) Once across brook, trail climbs through turns to L and R and then undertakes long steady ascent, with occasional levelings, up slope through fine mixed woods of hardwood, spruce and hemlock. Spruces take over at 2350 ft. and at 2500 ft. trail levels, passing by large boulder on L. Climb soon resumes, and first of two very steep pitches is encountered at 2650 ft. At top of a third, shorter steep pitch (2800 ft.), trail swings L and levels briefly, then makes modeate winding climb and at 1.6 mi./2950 ft. crest of ridge is attained. Here there is fine outlook ledge on L, marked with small potholes, with dramatic dropoff into Drakes Brook valley and good view N to Osceolas, Mad River Notch, Mt. Kancamagus, Hancocks, Mt. Carrigain, Presidentials, and Tripyramids. Village of Waterville Valley is seen down to L. This outlook makes good objective for solid half-day hike.

Beyond outlook, trail runs over knob, dips, and passes over second knob with one ledge scramble. Just after passing over 2976-ft. high point of Noon Peak, another outlook opens on L, with dramatic view down into Drakes Brook valley. Summit of Sandwich Dome looms up to R, with the southern Flat Mtn. poking up through col to L. From here trail descends gradually, through very dense growth at times, then meanders upward, shoots up one steep pitch, and weaves along to ledgy area at 2.4 mi./3070 ft. View is limited from trail, but wider view can be obtained by dropping down sloping ledges to L: down into Drakes Brook valley with the northern Flat Mtn. beyond, plus Tripyramids on L and Whiteface, Sandwich Dome summit and nearby Jennings Peak to R. After slight dip and level section, trail climbs moderately to jct. L with Drakes Brook Trail at 2.7 mi./3240 ft. Continue up to jct. R with Jennings Peak spur at 2.8 mi./3350 ft. Here Sandwich Mountain Trail turns L. Jennings Peak spur diverges sharp R and climbs easily, then steeply for last 100 yds. with one ledge scramble. Near top of peak excellent NE outlook is passed, a few yds. down on L, then path pushes through scrubby trees and out to open ledges atop S-facing cliffs, 0.2 mi. from Sandwich Mountain Trail.

From jct., main trail runs at nearly level grade through beautiful, open high elevation forest of fir, ferns, wood sorrel and birch. Reach jct. R with Smarts Brook Trail at 3.3 mi./3420 ft. Continue straight on Sandwich Mountain Trail for moderate climb, with occasional easier stretches, through nice fir woods. Algonquin Trail comes in on R at 3.85 mi., and at 3.9 mi. Bennett

Street Trail enters from R. Continue ahead another 20 yds. to partly open summit where ledge provides good view N to high peaks of Whites. Limited view S is found from side path L a few yds. down Bennett Street Trail.

Drakes Brook Trail, Sandwich Mountain Trail

Jennings Peak and Sandwich Dome

9.2 mi. round trip, 2700-ft. elevation gain

Jennings Peak only

7.0 mi. round trip, 2100-ft. elevation gain

Loop option with ascent via Sandwich Mountain Trail, descent via Drakes Brook Trail

Jennings Peak and Sandwich Dome

8.7 mi. loop, 2700-ft. elevation gain

Jennings Peak only

6.5 mi. loop, 2100-ft. elevation gain

Drakes Brook Trail provides a longer, more moderate ascent to the ridge just below Jennings Peak. From L side of parking area, follow old road (ski trail in winter) at easy grade, quickly passing Jennings Peak ski trail on L. At 0.4 mi. bear R off road/ski trail (which swings uphill to L) and hop across Drakes Brook – may be difficult at high water. On far side trail climbs at easy to moderate grades up old logging roads along brook, gradually curving to R (S). Forest is open hardwoods with many yellow birches. Steadier climb ensues to ca. 2.2 mi./2400 ft., then grade is easy as route swings to SW. Trail then resumes climb, and at 2.6 mi. swings R off logging road, away from brook, climbs short, steep pitch, then ascends slope by switchbacks through fir-birch forest, then open firs. Reach Sandwich Mountain Trail near crest of ridge at 3.2 mi./3240 ft. Turn L to reach Jennings Peak spur in 0.1 mi. and Sandwich Dome summit 1.1 mi. beyond, as described above.

SOUTHWEST APPROACH from NH 49

Smarts Brook Trail, Sandwich Mountain Trail

Sandwich Dome

11.4 mi. round trip, 3100-ft. elevation gain

Jennings Peak

11.6 mi. round trip, 2800-ft. elevation gain

Sandwich Dome and Jennings Peak

12.8 mi. round trip, 3400-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD(900 ft.): Smarts Brook Trail starts at parking area on E side of NH 49, 4.9 mi. N of I-93 at Exit 28.

Though its lower section has been disrupted by recent logging, the upper half of this trail is a beautiful walk up through a remote wilderness valley. From parking area, trail runs S parallel to road, crossing Smarts Brook on the highway bridge, then quickly turns L into woods and climbs to old logging road, where it bears L again. At 0.2 mi. it turns R and then quickly L onto recently improved logging road; at this point Tri-Town X-C Ski Trail continues ahead. (Descending, turn R off improved logging road.) Trail now follows wide road at easy grade up lower part of valley, swinging around to R (SE). At 1.1 mi. look L for nice ledgy cascade and pool. Tri-Town X-C Ski Trail enters on R at 1.3 mi., and Yellow Jacket X-C Ski Trail diverges L across bridge (leading 1.2 mi. to Pine Flats X-C Ski Trail, which can then be followed L another 0.7 mi. back to parking area, passing scenic gorge on Smarts Brook). Smarts Brook Trail soon crosses tributary brook on bridge and passes by open beaver meadow on R at 1.5 mi.

Smarts Brook Trail then crosses R side of large open logging yard, re-entering woods on far side. Beyond here trail narrows and continues through mixed woods, passing through several recent logging cuts and crossing a number of skid roads. Trail bends to R, passes through birches and more logged areas, and comes back near Smarts Brook.

Enter Sandwich Range Wilderness at 2.5 mi./1650 ft. and cross tributary 0.1 mi. beyond. Trail now climbs along S side of main brook through mixed woods. Farther on you climb more steeply, higher above brook, with occasional peeks L up to cliffs of Sachem Peak across valley. Grade eases before crossing of another tributary at 2050 ft., steepens to climb between the two brooks, then lessens again amidst mossy conifer forest in broad upper valley. Trail now meanders through area of large boulders, crossing brook again. After weaving through some even bigger boulders, it angles L and climbs long switchback through open fir woods. Swing R at 2950 ft. and climb across to S, then L again for easy stretch before steady, winding climb of 0.3 mi. leads to jct. with Sandwich Mountain Trail at 5.1 mi./ 3420 ft. Turn R to reach Sandwich Dome in 0.6 mi., or L to access Jennings Peak spur trail in 0.5 mi.

SOUTHWEST APPROACHES from Sandwich Notch Rd.

Algonquin Trail, Sandwich Mountain Trail

Black Mtn. and Sandwich Dome

9.0 mi. round trip, 2900-ft. elevation gain

Black Mtn. only

6.6 mi. round trip, 2100-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (1420 ft.): The Algonquin Trail leaves the narrow and rough Sandwich Notch Road, 3.5 mi. S of NH 49 and 1.5 mi. N of the trailhead for Guinea Pond Trail. Sandwich Notch Rd. leaves NH 49 4.1 mi. N of I-93. The road is passable for regular cars, but slow, careful driving is required, and be prepared to pull to the side to allow vehicles to pass in the other direction. There is room for 2 or 3 cars at the trailhead, and additional parking at small pulloffs along the road in either direction.

The Algonquin Trail is the most rugged and scenic of all approaches to Sandwich Dome, crossing numerous open ledges on Black Mtn. There are several ledge scrambles; some of these, but not the hardest one, can be avoided via bypasses. From trailhead, trail follows old logging road at nearly level grade through deep mixed forest, crossing small brook and passing beaver meadow on R. At 0.9 mi./1540 ft., in small clearing by site of old logging camp (look for apple tree on L), yellow-blazed trail bears L off road and soon begins stiff climb through hardwood forest. Grade eases as trail enters spruce forest at ca. 2200 ft. and meanders across ledgy plateau, with glimpses of lower and upper Black Mtns. After crossing small stream, tackle steep rocky pitch leading up to col between the two Black Mtns. at 2.1 mi./2580 ft. Here trail turns L and runs across col, entering Sandwich Range Wilderness.

After slight dip, begin steep climb up W slope of the higher Black Mtn. Trail soon skirts base of cliff, then swings L for toughest ledge scramble of day, with dropoff on L. At top of this pitch is first outlook (2700 ft.), up on R, looking W. The lower Black Mtn. looms close by to W, ledgy Welch and Dickey are to NW, and distant views include Kearsarge, Cardigan and Moosilauke. A short distance farther up trail is another ledge up on R that expands view S to Lake Winnipesaukee and Belknap Range. Continue climbing up through conifers and across more ledges; steep pitch leads up to next outlook, again on R, at 2850 ft. with views sweeping from SW around to Mad River Notch on the N. After short dip, negotiate fairly difficult ledge scramble (bypass path is available on R), clamber up more ledges, then swing L up a small rock face where a longer bypass continues ahead – a confusing spot. Atop this scramble (3000 ft.) is wide view W. Continue up through scrub and over ledges, passing another outlook L with good view of Sachem and Jennings Peaks, dip into woods, then continue up ridge through scrubby conifers and across fairly steep ledges with partial views. Last part of steep climb is largely in open, with extensive views including summit of Sandwich Dome ahead. At 2.8 mi./3300 ft. reach jct. R with Black Mountain Pond Trail. In another 0.1 mi. trail scrambles up to spectacular ledge perch looking straight down at Black Mountain Pond and offering wide views to E, S and W (see view description below). This is one of best viewing and lunch spots on Sandwich Dome.

From here Algonquin Trail continues climbing easily up ridge over more ledges and through scrub. At 3.1 mi./3425 ft. pass large granite erratic on L, clearly different from metamorphic bedrock on ledges. Just beyond, open ledges on L provide good views W and N. Continue up at easy grade, cross flat, scrubby top of Black Mtn. at 3.3 mi./3500 ft., then descend steeply down ledges, with partial view ahead to Sandwich Dome summit. Distant peaks (including Mt. Washington) and nearby Jennings Peak are to L. Trail bottoms out in flat col at 3.5 mi./3380 ft., then meanders easily upward along narrow, thickly wooded ridge, with occasional slight descent and a peek or two at views to W over scrub. At ca. 3500 ft. grade increases to moderate. At 4.3 mi./3840 ft. rocky opening on trail provides standup view looking back (S) to Lakes Region and nearby bulk of Black Mtn. Continue steady climb to Sandwich Mountain Trail at 4.5 mi./3950 ft.; turn R here and continue another 100 yd. up to summit of Sandwich Dome.

Guinea Pond Trail, Black Mountain Pond Trail, Algonquin Trail, Sandwich Mountain Trail

Black Mtn. and Sandwich Dome, out-and-back

13.6 mi. round trip, 3000-ft. elevation gain

Black Mtn. only, out-and-back

11.2 mi. round trip, 2200-ft. elevation gain

Loop with descent via Algonquin Trail and return walk along Sandwich Notch Rd.:

Black Mtn. and Sandwich Dome.

12.7 mi. loop, 3050-ft. elevation gain

Black Mtn. only

10.3 mi. loop, 2250-ft. elevation gain

TRAILHEAD (1320 ft.): The Guinea Pond Trail starts from the Sandwich Notch Rd., 4.9 mi. S of NH 49 and just S of a crossroads and powerline. The trailhead is 5.8 mi. N of NH 113 in Center Sandwich. Allow plenty of time for the slow drive on the narrow, rough road. Designated parking is 100 yds. up Beebe River Rd. (the road that goes W from the crossroads) on its N side. To reach the trail, walk back to the crossroads, turn R on Sandwich Notch Rd., cross the bridge over the Beebe River and look for trail sign on L.

This is a long and attractive approach to Black Mtn. and Sandwich Dome,

passing by many interesting wetlands and picturesque Black Mountain Pond. From trailhead, follow old road up past gate and through powerline clearing. Here trail picks up old grade of Beebe River logging RR and runs at easy grades through hardwoods, then enters extensive area of swamps and meadows, with some wet footing and occasional vistas of Sandwich Dome from open areas. Pass second gate at 1.2 mi. and 0.1 mi. beyond follow bypass R through woods to avoid flooded area. Return to RR grade at 1.6 mi. and in another 40 yd. reach jct. R with Mead Trail for Mt. Israel. Continue another 10 yd. on Guinea Pond Trail, then turn L on Black Mountain Pond Trail.

This yellow-blazed path quickly crosses Beebe River – here a mountain brook – on recently placed large step stones, then meanders upward at easy grade. It angles L to ascend alongside the stream past small cascades, and turns R to recross where it issues from large scenic beaver meadow on L. Continue up through open woods of birch, hardwood and spruce past another beaver meadow and rejoin brook, passing attractive cascades and pools. At 2.4 mi. trail crosses old grown-up logging road, with ice spot on brook to L. After passing another beaver meadow down slope to L, climb moderately, then cross shelf with mucky footing. Trail then climbs by switchbacks through drier spruce woods, passing side trail that leads 0.1 mi. L to Mary Cary Falls at 3.5 mi./2050 ft.; waterfall often has low flow, but is nevertheless scenic as it spills over tall steep ledges. After crossing another muddy flat, angle up to L and cross brook once more. Short climb over knoll leads to spruce grove (heavily impacted by camping) above shore of Black Mountain Pond at 4.0 mi./2220 ft. Side paths lead R to points at water’s edge with impressive views across pond to ledgy face of Black Mtn.; please keep off signed revegetation areas. Here main trail turns L and runs across knoll through area with many beaten paths (follow blazes carefully), then swings R and drops sharply to site of former shelter, where path leads R down to shore, with view across to SE ridge of Sandwich Dome. Trail now meanders up and down in dense conifers behind SW shore of pond, then swings R to bypass beaver pond on L. Trail emerges at corner of beaver pond and soon begins steep ascent of Black Mtn.

Climb is moderate at first, then quickly becomes steep, rough and rocky, with tricky scramble up chimney at ca. 2550 ft. Trail turns L at top, briefly eases, then ascends steeply with several twists and turns – follow markings carefully. Views to S begin to appear as you work around to SW side of mountain. First view back down to Black Mountain Pond is on L after very steep pitch amidst huge ledges. Higher up is spacious ledge with expansive 180-degree view to S and W. Climbing continues very rugged amidst ledges and boulder caves. Some scrambles are fairly challenging, especially on descent. Trail pops out onto more ledges with first views of Welch and Dickey and Moosilauke, then climbs moderately to meet Algonquin Trail at 5.1 mi./3300 ft. Turn R here to reach ledge looking down at Black Mountain Pond in 0.1 mi., Black Mtn. summit in 0.5 mi., and Sandwich Dome summit

in 1.7 mi., as described under Algonquin Trail route.

SOUTHEAST APPROACHES from Bennett St.

TRAILHEAD (1060 ft.): From this trailhead on a back road in Sandwich, one can ascend to Sandwich Dome via either of two routes that rejoin near the summit. Perhaps the best trip on this quiet, secluded side of Sandwich Dome is a loop combining the Bennett Street Trail and Gleason Trail routes. To reach the trailhead, turn off NH 113A, 2.9 mi. N of its jct. with NH 113 in North Sandwich, onto Whiteface Intervale Rd. In 0.1 mi. turn L onto Bennett St. Keep straight at a fork at 1.7 mi. and continue up narrow dirt road to parking area on L at 2.2 mi. from NH 113A.

Flat Mountain Pond Trail, Bennett Street Trail

9.0 mi. round trip, 2900-ft. elevation gain

From trailhead, walk W beyond gate on Flat Mountain Pond Trail, here a gravel road, passing former trailhead known as Jose’s Bridge at 0.2 mi. At 0.5 mi., in small clearing, turn R on Bennett Street Trail and ascend easily through hemlocks along Pond Brook, crossing several small tributaries. Gleason Trail diverges L at 1.1mi/1400 ft. Continue straight on rougher footway along brook bank, passing unnamed cascade, and then Great Falls, attractive cascade and pool in small gorge, at 1.6 mi. Beyond, cross tributary and turn L, climbing up side valley at steeper grade. Recross tributary and make stiff climb to jct. with Flat Mountain Pond Trail, which here follows bed of old Beebe River logging RR, at 2.1 mi./1850 ft.

After crossing railroad grade, enter Sandwich Range Wilderness and continue steady climbing on Bennett Street Trail through ice-damaged hardwoods. Grade remains fairly stiff as trail angles to R and conifers mix into forest. At 2.8 mi. bear R onto old logging road for long, pleasant stretch at easy grade, with glimpses out towards Mt. Whiteface, Sleepers, Chocorua and the southern Flat Mtn. Cross two tiny streams and just beyond, at 3.4 mi./3250 ft., trail steers L to resume steadier climb. Grade eases again, and after R and L turns reach upper jct. with Gleason Trail at 4.0 mi./3650 ft. From jct., Bennett Street Trail climbs moderately, then veers L to contour across high wooded slope, becoming rough and narrow. After easy traverse at 3800 ft., climb fairly steeply to meet Sandwich Mountain Trail at 4.5 mi./3980 ft.; summit of Sandwich Dome is a few yds. to R.

Flat Mountain Pond Trail, Bennett Street Trail, Gleason Trail

7.6 mi. round trip, 2900-ft. elevation gain

Loop with Bennett Street Trail

8.3 mi. loop, 2900-ft. elevation gain

Gleason Trail provides shorter, steeper route as alternative to middle section of Bennett Street Trail. Interesting loop can be made by ascending this route, then descending entire length of Bennett Street Trail.

Gleason Trail diverges L off Bennett Street Trail, 1.1 mi. from trailhead. Ascend to cross tributary brook on ledges and continue steadily up through hardwoods to Flat Mountain Pond Trail (old railroad grade) at 1.6 mi./1750 ft. Cross that trail, enter Sandwich Range Wilderness, and continue climbing steadily up hardwood slope, with brook off to L. Higher up, trail makes several turns and becomes quite steep in places, with occasional rough footing. Here birches show evidence of ice storm damage. At 2.6 mi. grades eases, and trail angles up along slope high on SE ridge of Sandwich Dome. Occasional limited views of Flat Mountain Pond and Mt. Whiteface can be seen through trees. Pleasant climbing continues to upper jct. with Bennett Street Trail at 3.3 mi./3650 ft. Turn L to reach summit of Sandwich Dome in 0.5 mi.

WINTER

Drakes Brook Trail and the upper Sandwich Mountain Trail make a pleasant snowshoe trip with moderate grades. The parking area is plowed. Deep snowpack improves views atop the Dome, especially to the S. The side trip to Jennings Peak is also worthwhile, with one short potentially challenging scramble near the top. The Sandwich Mountain Trail below Noon Peak is a steeper and more difficult snowshoe route; the outlook on Noon Peak is a good objective for a fairly challenging half-day snowshoe climb. The upper Smarts Brook Trail is seldom used in winter, thus extensive trail breaking should be expected. The Algonquin Trail trailhead is not car-accessible in winter, and in any case the scrambles on the side of Black Mtn. could be difficult and even dangerous in winter. The approaches from Bennett Street are mostly moderate but not often used in winter; the road is plowed only as far as the fork 0.5 mi. E of the summer parking area.

VIEW GUIDE

Sandwich Dome Summit: A small open area at the summit with an uplifted ledge provides a grand view N over the Waterville Valley region and beyond to the high peaks of the Whites. The view is widest if you stand, though much can be seen while seated on the ledge. In the 19^th century the summit was more open, with views all around, prompting Moses Sweetser to call this “one of the grandest and most fascinating panoramas in New England.”

On the far L, looking WNW, is the broad, spreading mass of Mt. Moosilauke. Next to the R is the nearby, ledgy Jennings Peak, seen below Green Mtn., the S spur of Mt. Tecumseh, with Mt. Wolf in the distance. To the R of Wolf are South and North Kinsman. Just to the R and closer is the peak of Tecumseh with the Waterville Valley ski trails beneath. Off the R slope of Tecumseh are the Northeast Cannon Ball and Cannon Mtn., with Scar Ridge farther R and closer. To the R of Scar is the Franconia Range; L to R are Liberty’s sharp peak above Whaleback Mtn., Little Haystack above

Flume, and Lincoln and Lafayette above the east peak of Scar Ridge. Next to the R, seen across the Waterville Valley, is rugged Mt. Osceola, featuring a good look into the ravine of Osceola Brook between the main summit and East Peak. The tip of Galehead Mtn. peers over the Osceola-East Peak col. To the R of East Peak is Mad River Notch; through this gap are seen (L to R) South Twin with West Bond and Bondcliff beneath, Bond’s double summit, Zealand Mtn., and Mt. Hancock’s sharp NW peak over the cliff-faced W spur of Mt. Huntington. Close by and below in this direction is the dark crest of Noon Peak with part of Waterville Valley village behind it.

On the R side of Mad River Notch, North Hancock (slide-marked, with Mt. Huntington beneath), South Hancock, and that mountain’s long E ridge are seen over the rolling crest of Mt. Kancamagus. Mt. Tom peers over the R end of Hancock’s E ridge, with the summit of Kancamagus below. Next to the R are Mt. Field and the imposing mass of Mt. Carrigain, seen over the E end of Kancamagus. To the R of Carrigain, through the broad Livermore Pass, the peaks of the Nancy Range are seen under the Southern Presidentials; L to R are Webster, Jackson, Anderson, Lowell, Pierce, Nancy, Eisenhower, Bemis and Franklin. Mt. Jefferson rises up in the back to the R of Eisenhower, and farther R Mt. Clay is seen above Mt. Monroe, with Mt. Adams peering over in back. Next to the R is the majestic cone of Washington rising above Oakes Gulf, with Boott Spur to the R above the nearer Scaur Peak. The upper Montalban Ridge, including Mt. Isolation, is in line with Boott Spur, and to the R is the Rocky Branch Ridge. Nearby and low down in this direction is the long, gentle ridge of Snows Mtn.

Next to the R, looking NNE just 5 mi. away, are the three peaks of the Tripyramids, with the South Slides well-displayed below South Peak. The top of Carter Dome is seen between North and Middle Tripyramid. The two rounded domes of The Sleepers extend R from Tripyramid, with Black Mtn. in Jackson seen through the col between South Tripyramid and West Sleeper. South Baldface, Sable and Doublehead Mtns. are seen over the col between The Sleepers, with Eastman and Speckled Mtns. piled up beyond the Doubleheads. In the foreground the long, low crest of the northern Flat Mtn. is seen below the Tripyramids and Sleepers. To the R of East Sleeper, Mts. Passaconaway (L) and Whiteface (R) rise above the nearby secondary summit of Sandwich Dome. Off the L slope of Passaconaway is the abrupt cone of Kearsarge North, with its northern spurs seen to its L over Big Attitash Mtn. To the R of Whiteface, seen over its S ridges, are Mt. Paugus (L) and rocky Mt.Chocorua (R). On the far R is distant Pleasant Mtn. in Maine, with Chocorua’s S ridge and Mt. Wonalancet below.

A limited standup view to the SE can be found from a ledge in the woods a few yds. behind the summit clearing; it may also be accessed a few ft. down the Bennett Street Trail. Through gaps in the fir scrub you can see the Ossipee Range, Copple Crown Mtn., Red Hill Pond and the spread of Lake Winnipesaukee. In line with the R part of the lake are Red Hill over Mt. Israel in front and the Belknap Range beyond. A more open standup vista to the S is found from a ledgy spot at ca. 3840 ft., 0.2 mi. down the Algonquin Trail. Here the view starts on the L with the R part of Lake Winnipesaukee, with the Belknaps beyond and Red Hill and Mt. Israel in front. Next to the R is the Squam Range with Squam Lake sprawling beyond. Kiah Pond can be seen in front of and under the Squam Range. Mt. Kearsarge is on the horizon over the Squam Range’s Mt. Morgan, with Ragged Mtn. to its R. On very clear days Crotched Mtn. and Mt. Monadnock can be spotted to the L of Kearsarge. Lovewell Mtn. is seen over the R side of Ragged, and farther R is Sunapee Mtn. over the nearer, flat-topped Mt. Prospect. Close at hand to the SW is the broad dome of the upper Black Mtn., with Plymouth Mtn. beyond. Just to the R is the Campton Range, with the top of the lower Black Mtn. beneath and Mt. Cardigan on the horizon. To the R of Cardigan are the more distant Croydon Peak and Grantham Mtn., while closer in is Tenney Mtn. and its ski trails. On clear days various Vermont peaks can be seen to the R of Croydon, including Stratton, Ascutney, Okemo and Dorset. On the far R is Stinson Mtn., with Moose Mtn. in Hanover beyond on its L.

Black Mountain: Of the numerous open ledges on Black Mtn., the best perch is an uplifted ledge along the Algonquin Trail 0.1 mi. N of the jct. with Black Mountain Pond Trail; elevation here is ca. 3350 ft. The view sweeps from the E around through the S to the WNW. Especially fine are the views down to Black Mountain Pond and out to other ponds in the Sandwich Notch area, with the Lakes Region beyond.

On the far L is the nearby top of the upper Black Mtn. Extending out to the R behind Black is the great SE ridge of Sandwich Dome. The distant view starts off this sloping ridge with the Burnt Meadow Mtns. and other low peaks near the Maine/New Hampshire border. Nearby and down low to the ESE is Young Mtn., a perfect little wooded cone. To the R of Young in the distance is the N end of the Ossipee Range, with Ossipee Lake and Green Mtn. in Effingham beyond on the L. The Ossipee Range extends to the R over Black Snout and several other peaks to its highest point, Mt. Shaw. Looking towards Mt. Shaw, you see Black Mountain Pond sparkling on a plateau 1000 ft. below you, with a nameless double-humped knob and a large beaver swamp behind it. Farther back to the R is Mt. Israel, with a powerline strip along its base. The Moose Mtns. and Copple Crown Mtn. are in the distance to the L of Israel. A ridge runs R from Israel across to Dinsmore Mtn., with Red Hill, Lake Winnipesaukee and the Belknap Range beyond. Belknap Mtn., Gunstock Mtn. and Piper Mtn. (L to R) are the trio of peaks on the R end of the Belknaps. On the horizon to the L of the Belknap Range and Red Hill are Blue Job Mtn. and other mountains in the Blue Hills range near Rochester. To the R of Dinsmore is the Squam Range, with a bit of Squam Lake seen through the S end of Sandwich Notch. In line with the first peak (unnamed) of the Squam Range is the squared-off sheet of Kiah Pond. The Squam Range continues across to the R over the twin summits of Double head, wit the twin Uncanoonucs in the distance, to the long ridge of Squam Mtn., with the wavy ridge of Hersey Mtn. on the horizon; the Lyndeboro Mtns. and Crotched Mtn. appear to the L of Hersey. Next to the R are Mts. Percival and Morgan, with Mt. Webster peering out behind. Farther R is Mt. Kearsarge on the horizon, with far-off Mt. Monadnock to its L and Ragged Mtn. to its R and closer, seen over the Bridgewater Mtns. Lovewell Mtn. peers over a col on the R half of Ragged. Lower Hall Pond glimmers in the Sandwich Notch lowlands, in line with Ragged. A bit farther R, over the lower L end of the Campton Range, is flat-topped Mt. Prospect, with Sunapee Mtn. sprawling on the horizon. Plymouth Mtn. is behind and R of Prospect. Farther R, looking SW, are Mt. Weetamoo and Campton Mtn. in the nearby Campton Range, with Mt. Cardigan and its wide-spreading spurs on the horizon. Upper Hall Pond is visible at the base of a spur ridge of the Campton Range. Tenney Mtn. is in front of and R of Cardigan, with Mt. Crosby behind it on the R. Farther R Vermont’s Mt. Ascutney is on the horizon, and farther R in the distance are Okemo Mtn., with Dorset Peak behind on its R (visible only on the clearest of days) and Salt Ash Mtn.. Continuing to the R, the prominent spread of Stinson Mtn. is seen, with the South (L) and North (R) peaks of Hanover’s Moose Mtn. in the distance on its L. On clear days the sharp peaks of the Killington Range are visible on the horizon over Stinson. To the R of Stinson is the great sprawling mass of Carr Mtn., with the broad, distant dome of Smarts Mtn. between them. A single peak in Vermont’s Mt. Carmel range is seen over the low point between Smarts and Carr. Close by and below in line with Smarts is the ledge-dotted peak of the lower Black Mtn. Standing, you can extend the view farther R to take in Carr’s northern neighbors, Mt. Kineo and Cushman, and part of Mt. Moosilauke.

Good views to the NW and N can be found from ledges along the Algonquin Trail a short distance below the jct. with Black Mountain Pond Trail, where there is an especially fine look at the cliffs of Sachem Peak and Jennings Peak, and from more ledges to the L of the trail about 0.1 mi. above the Black Mountain Pond view ledge, just beyond a large granite erratic. The upper viewpoint is higher (3450 ft.) and takes in more peaks to the N, especially when standing. The view starts on the L (SSW) with Hersey Mtn. and sweeps around to Carr Mtn., as described above. To the R of Carr, Mt. Kineo and Mt. Cushman are seen beyond nearby Cone Mtn. Breadloaf Mtn. and its Green Mountain neighbors are strung along the horizon between Carr and Kineo, and Mts. Abraham and Ellen are on a long ridge between Kineo and Cushman. Farther R Mt. Moosilauke sprawls beyond the bright ledges of Welch and Dickey Mtns., with Bald Knob and its nameless neighboring peak on Acteon Ridge in the foreground. The top of Fisher Mtn. peeks over just to the R of and behind Dickey’s N ledges. On the horizon a long ridge runs across to the R of Moosilauke to the notched peak of Mt. Wolf. Underneath Wolf, Hogback Mtn. peers over a ridge extending from Dickey to Green Mtn. Farther R South and North Kinsman are seen over Green Mtn. From Green a ridge extends R to Mt. Tecumseh, with Tecumseh’s West Peak poking above a low point. Under Tecumseh are the granite cliffs of Sachem Peak. Mts. Lincoln and Lafayette are seen off the R side of Tecumseh. Next to the R Owl’s Head Mtn. (L) and Mt. Garfield (R) appear to the R of Scar Ridge’s E peak. Farther R is Mt. Osceola and its East Peak. To the R of East Peak, several mountains are seen through Mad River Notch: Zealand Ridge, NW Hancock above the cliffy West Peak of Mt. Huntington, and slide-scarred North Hancock over Mt. Huntington. The sharp knob of Jennings Peak is just R of the notch, with the W knob of Mt. Kancamagus and South Hancock off its L slope. To the R of Jennings the E ridge of Hancock and the huge bulk of Mt. Carrigain rise beyond the undulating crest of Mt. Kancamagus, with Mt. Field seen just L of Kancamagus’ summit.

Jennings Peak: This sharp knob offers excellent views S over the Smarts Brook valley from level clifftop ledges at the spur trail’s end, and NE from a ledge a few yards E off the spur trail a short distance before its end. The clifftop ledges drop off sharply in front, so keep back from the edge, especially if wet.

The S view starts on the L with the huge wooded, double-domed mass of Sandwich Dome rising just a mile away to the SE. Extending to the R of the Dome is the bulky ridge of the upper Black Mtn., looking over the broad and remote upper valley of Smarts Brook. The distant view begins beyond the ridge that slopes down to the R from Black. On the L is Hersey Mtn., with (L to R) the Lyndeboro Mtns., Pack Monadnocks and Crotched Mtn. in the distance to its L. To the R and closer is Mt. Morgan in the Squam Range. Next to the R is Mt. Kearsarge on the horizon, with Mt. Monadnock visible to its L on clear days. Farther R the lower Black Mtn. is seen under a spur of the Campton Range with flat-topped Mt. Prospect beyond. Ragged Mtn.(with Lovewell Mtn. over its R side) is seen over the Bridgewater Mtns. behind and L of Prospect. Sunapee Mtn.’s long distant ridge is to Prospect’s R. Next to the R are Mt. Weetamoo and Campton Mtn. with Plymouth Mtn. beyond. Farther to the R is Mt. Cardigan, with Croydon Peak and Grantham Mtn. just to its R. If you move to the L side of the clifftop ledges, you can extend the view farther to the R and look down on the wild knobs of Sachem Peak, with Vermont’s Mt. Ascutney on the skyline beyond. To the R of Sachem in the distance is wide-spreading Stinson Mtn., with Hanover’s South Moose on its L and North Moose on its R. Salt Ash Mtn. in Vermont can be seen in the distance to the L of South Moose. Farther R Winslow Ledge is seen on the R of Stinson’s N peak, and on the far R Smarts Mtn. rises above the long S ridge of Carr Mtn.

The SE-facing ledge has an excellent view of the nearby Sandwich Range and more distant high peaks to the N. It starts on the R with the upper Black Mtn., with Sandwich Dome looming close by to its L. To the L of the Dome there’s a dramatic look down into the upper valley of Drakes Brook, across which lies the low, sprawling northern Flat Mtn., with Mt. Whiteface (R) and Mt. Passaconaway (L) rising impressively beyond. Mt. Wonalancet’s rounded form is seen to the R of and behind the lower S ridges of Whiteface; farther back and to the R is part of the long SE ridge of Mt. Chocorua leading down to Bald Mtn. Through the gap between Whiteface and the L slope of Sandwich are the Burnt Meadow Mtns. and other low distant hills near the Maine/New Hampshire border. To the L of Passaconaway the two rounded Sleepers extend L to three-peaked Mt. Tripyramid, with its South Slide in full view. The summit of Snows Mtn. is seen below the slide, with a long, gentle ridge running to the L. Jutting to the L of Tripyramid is Scaur Peak, with Noon Peak seen close in and below. Over the flat ridge between Tripyramid and Scaur Peak are (R to L) Rainbow Ridge, Carter Dome, Wildcat A, Middle Carter and Wildcats D and E. Mt. Washington rises majestically to the L of Scaur Peak, through the broad gap of Livermore Pass. On the R side of Washington are Boott Spur and the upper Montalban and Rocky Branch Ridges. On its L are Mts. Clay and Jefferson with Monroe, Franklin and Eisenhower beneath. Seen under the Presidentials are flat Duck Pond Mtn. on the R and the four peaks of the Nancy Range on the L (R to L, Mts. Bemis, Nancy, Anderson and Lowell). Mts. Pierce and Jackson are seen over Lowell and Anderson. To the L of the Presys, Mt. Carrigain towers over the E half of Mt. Kancamagus. Mt. Field is seen to the L of Kancamagus’ summit, then the E ridge of Mt. Hancock extends L to the sharp peak of South Hancock.

Noon Peak: The open, pothole-dotted ledge along the ridgecrest N of Noon Peak’s summit has excellent views N and E and is a fine objective for a fairly steep half-day hike. There is a dramatic dropoff into the Drakes Brook valley in front, and the distant views extend as far as Mt. Washington. On the far L there are glimpses of Mt. Tecumseh and Scar Ridge through the trees. Farther R, partly screened by trees, Mt. Liberty can be spotted rising over Mt. Osceola’s Breadtray Ridge, with East Scar Ridge, Little Haystack Mtn. and Mt. Lincoln farther to the R. Next to the R, looming NNW across the Waterville Valley, is the imposing Mt. Osceola, with its sharp West Peak and the tip of its Middle Peak on the L, then the main summit and the symmetrical East Peak. The Painted Cliff can be spotted on a lower spur of East Peak on the R. The fields and residential areas of Waterville Valley are down in the broad basin in front of East Peak. To the R of Osceola is the beautiful Mad River Notch. Seen in the distance through this gap are (L to R): Mt. Bond, Zealand Mtn., the cliff-faced West Peak of Mt. Huntington, and the sharp peak of NW Hancock. Farther R the North, South and Middle Peaks of Mt. Hancock peer over the flat W knob of Mt. Kancamagus. The low ledgy knob of The Scaur is visible well below the cliffs on a S spur of Mt. Kancamagus’s W knob. Mt. Kancamagus’s other summits sprawl to the R, with Mt. Carrigain poking up to the right of the main summit. To the R of Mt. Kancamagus is the high gap of Livermore Pass; through this are seen (L to R) the tip of Mt. Lowell, Mts. Jefferson and Eisenhower above Mt. Nancy, Mt. Franklin, Mt.