An excerpt from Wandering Through the White Mountains, by Steven D. Smith
TOP-RANKED TRAILS
The journey is as important as the destination, and walking a great trail can be as much a reward, if not more, than reaching the top of a peak. Presented herewith is an annotated list of what are, in this hiker’s opinion, the most rewarding of the 500 or so named trails in the
FIRST TEAM
Crawford Path On a clear day this venerable route across the
Gulfside Trail This skyway across the
Bondcliff Trail This route leads you across the magnificent Bond ridge in the remote heart of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. On a good day the stretch across the Bondcliffs and up unto
Franconia Ridge Trail A pick so obvious it needs little elaboration. In addition to the classic (and often crowded) open ridge trek between Little Haystack and
Welch-Dickey Loop Trail Biggest bang for the buck in the Whites, with two miles of intermittent open ledge walking on a 4.4-mile loop over a pair of small mountains. One of the most popular of the half-day hikes, with a new expanded parking lot to prove it.
Algonquin Trail The most exciting of several fine routes up Sandwich Dome. Ledge scrambles lift you to a succession of excellent outlooks on the shoulder called
Baldface Circle/Bicknell Ridge Trails The long, strenuous loop over the barren Baldfaces is one of the great hikes in the Whites, with four miles of open ledges and fabulous views. The Bicknell Ridge Trail serves as a more scenic alternative to the northern link of Baldface Circle Trail, with ledgy outlooks alternating with deep spruce woods.
Zealand Trail A gentle walk up the peaceful
Mahoosuc Trail Arguably the most consistently rugged and scenic longer trail in the region, with nearly 11,000 feet of rough-and-tumble elevation gain in 27 miles. The southern section has several gorgeous ponds and plenty of ledgy viewpoints. The northern half features dramatic summits such as
SECOND TEAM
Carter-Moriah Trail This
Blueberry Ledge Trail The exciting way up
Great Gulf Trail This route guides you up the length of the most dramatic alpine valley in the Whites. There are views low down from The Bluff, then a long walk beside the rocky West Branch of the
Nancy Pond Trail The scenery doesn’t shout at you like the Presidentials, but this trail has marvelous variety: the 300-foot Nancy Cascades, old-growth spruce forest, dark and mysterious Nancy Pond, wide-open Norcross Pond, and a ledgy viewpoint overlooking the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The less-used west half of the trail eases you down through wild woods into the remote lowlands of the eastern Pemi.
Ethan Pond Trail A lowland trail with many scenic attractions, including the spectacular open rocks of Zealand Notch, nearby
Kinsman Ridge Trail Another long ridge trail with gnarly ups and downs and outstanding scenery strung along its 16 miles. The southern section up to and over Mt. Wolf is rugged, wooded and wild. Farther north are the mossy cascades of Eliza Brook, tiny, boggy Harrington Pond, and a breathless ledgy scramble with numerous views up to the open top of South Kinsman. You continue past North Kinsman’s classic view of the
Howker Ridge Trail One of the wildest and least-used major approaches on the Presidentials. It climbs steeply through deep forests, bounces over the several knobs known as the Howks with varied views, then breaks above treeline to climb to Osgood Ridge and
Moat Mountain Trail As it traverses the burned-over Moat Range this nine-mile trail passes through unusual red pine forest below South Moat, crosses long stretches of open ledge on South and Middle Moat, dips into mossy spruce groves, scrambles to the open pinnacle of North Moat, then descends to the quiet, hemlock-rich valley of Lucy Brook and the cascades at Diana’s Baths. Also magnificent is the open ledge section on the adjoining Red Ridge Trail.
Dry River Trail The
THIRD TEAM
Kilkenny Ridge Trail Relatively few hikers make it out to this far northern sector of the
Mount Tripyramid Trail The smooth slabs of the North Slide (not for the faint of heart) and broken rock and gravel of the South Slide ensure an exciting climb on this classic loop. The tops of both slides provide good views, and between the slides you traverse the three sharp summits of Tripyramid, with more vistas.
Flat Mountain Pond Trail This 10.3-mile horseshoe leads through one of the most remote and interesting corners of the Sandwich Range Wilderness. The highlight is the beautiful, ¾ mile long Flat Mountain Pond, surrounded by birch forests. One end of the trail follows an historic railroad grade, the other shadows the pretty
Blueberry Ridge Trail This route to Speckled Mountain in the Caribou-Speckled Wilderness passes waterfalls on Bickford Brook, then crosses many open ledges on little Blueberry Mountain and the long, scrubby Blueberry Ridge. An equally nice route on Speckled is the upper ledgy stretch of the
Wild River Trail This mellow trail provides an extended walk up the beautiful Wild River valley, following an old railroad grade and logging roads along the river and into the remote bog country of the upper valley, where you’ll find curious little No-Ketchum Pond.
Six Husbands Trail One of several bodacious trails shooting up out of the
Inlook Trail This short, little-known gem scoots up numerous open ledges on a lower Northern Presidential ridge, with views “in” to the giant peaks and “out” to the North Country.
Twinway A fine high-country route through the
Kenduskeag Trail Its name means “a pleasant walk,” and it delivers with alpine meadows and open ledges across the broad mass of
HONORABLE MENTION
UNH Trail A perfect half-day loop over little
Tuckerman Ravine Trail With the exception of Crystal Cascade, it’s wide, rocky and dull up to
Chippewa Trail Red pine and spruce forests give way to ledges, ledges and more ledges on this short, steep route to
Air Line The steep, rough middle section is made up for by the airy, spectacular traverse of the Knife Edge on Durand Ridge with its wide views north and down-looks into King Ravine.
King Ravine Trail An unforgettable route through the jumble of boulders on the floor of this immense glacial cirque, followed by the scramble up the craggy headwall.
Lambert Ridge Trail The most scenic route up massive
Red Rock Trail Not classically spectacular, but I’ve always liked this wild, lightly-trekked path that threads a long, low ridge in the Caribou-Speckled Wilderness, leading from
Shoal Pond Trail A muddy, spruce-lined path with a wonderful sense of remoteness, deep in the eastern Pemigewasset Wilderness. Beauty spots include the cascade and pool on Shoal Pond Brook and the edge of Shoal Pond, with its watery views of Zealand Notch and
Castle Trail Another superb route on the
RECOMMENDED SNOWSHOE HIKES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
KANCAMAGUS HIGHWAY
Franconia Falls 6.6 miles r.t., 300 ft. climb. Easy walk along old railroad grade (Lincoln Woods Trail) and side trail to scenic cascade. Additional option: 1.6 mile r.t., 200 ft. climb to Black Pond.
Greeley Ponds 4.4 miles r.t., 400 ft. climb. Moderate hike on Greeley Ponds Trail to pair of ponds nestled in spectacular notch.
East Ledges of Hedgehog Mtn. 4.0 miles r.t., 1100 ft. climb. Moderate ascent on east branch of UNH Trail to south-facing ledges.
Boulder Loop Trail 2.8 miles r.t., 900 ft. climb. Moderate hike up west branch of loop trail and spur to south-facing clifftop viewpoint.
FRANCONIA NOTCH
Mt. Pemigewasset 3.6 miles r.t., 1150 ft. climb. Steady ascent on Mt. Pemigewasset Trail to clifftop ledges (use caution) with views west, south and east.
Mt. Liberty 8.0 miles r.t., 3200 ft. climb. For advanced snowshoers only. Long, steady climb to rocky 4459-ft. summit with wide views. Use Whitehouse, Liberty Spring & Franconia Ridge Trails. Use caution on summit ledges.
Lonesome Lake 2.8 miles r.t., 1000 ft. climb. Moderate hike up Lonesome Lake Trail to high mountain pond with striking views of Kinsman Mtn. & Franconia Ridge.
Old Bridle Path Outlooks 4.0 miles r.t., 1600 ft. climb. Fairly steep ascent to ledgy outlooks with spectacular close-up of Franconia Ridge.
WATERVILLE VALLEY/SQUAM LAKE AREA
The Scaur 4.0 miles r.t., 700 ft. climb. Mostly easy trip, steep at end, to rocky outlook with views south to mountains around Waterville. Use Livermore Trail, Kettles Path & Scaur Trail.
Dickey Mtn. Ledge 2.4 miles r.t., 1200 ft. climb. Moderate trip up west branch of Welch-Dickey Loop Trail to first outlook ledge atop a great cliff (use caution).
West Rattlesnake 1.8 miles r.t., 400 ft. climb. Easy hike via Old Bridle Path off Rt. 113 to low summit with great view over Squam Lake.
CRAWFORD NOTCH
Mt. Willard 3.2 miles r.t., 900 ft. climb. Moderate climb up Mt. Willard Trail to cliffs with spectacular views of Crawford Notch.
Ethan Pond 6.0 miles r.t., 1800 ft. climb. Solid climb up Ethan Pond Trail to high, isolated pond with mountain views.
Mt. Pierce (Clinton) 6.4 miles r.t., 2400 ft. climb. For experienced snowshoers only. Steady climb up ancient Crawford Path, with short side trip above treeline to this open 4310-ft. Presidential peak. Crampons may be needed at end.
PINKHAM NOTCH
Lowe's Bald Spot 4.4 miles r.t., 850-ft. climb. Easy-graded climb up Old Jackson Road and Madison Gulf Trail to outlook with fine view of Northern Presidentials.
Lost Pond 1.2 miles r.t., 100 ft. climb. Easy beginners trip to pond with view of Mt. Washington.
Carter Notch 7.6 miles r.t., 2000 ft. climb. Full day trek on Nineteen Mile Brook Trail to remote notch with ponds, cliff scenery and AMC hut.
