An excerpt from Wandering Through the White Mountains, by Steven D. Smith

TOP-RANKED TRAILS

  The journey is as important as the destination, and walking a great trail can be as much a reward, if not more, than reaching the top of a peak.  Presented herewith is an annotated list of what are, in this hiker’s opinion, the most rewarding of the 500 or so named trails in the White Mountains. I have yet to hike all of the trails in the AMC White Mountain Guide, but this should give you a fair sampling of the more outstanding routes. Included are ridge rambles both open and wooded, long strolls through remote valleys, and shorter trails with a variety of attractions or unusual scenery. These are personal biases, and ten other hikers might come up with ten very different lists, though some trails are sure to be on most. Have fun making your own list!

 

FIRST TEAM

Crawford Path  On a clear day this venerable route across the Southern Presidentials is exhilarating, especially the wide open, mostly easy section from Mt. Eisenhower to Lakes of the Clouds. Through here the footing is good and the views up and down the barren ridge and across the Dry River valley are incomparable. Many generations of hikers have enjoyed this route blazed by Ethan Allen Crawford in 1819.

Gulfside Trail This skyway across the Northern Presidentials was painstakingly laid out by the great trail-builder J. Rayner Edmands and is in the open from start to finish. Highlights include the gaping views down into the Great Gulf from the shoulder of Mt. Washington and the many different perspectives on Mts. Jefferson, Adams and Madison.

Bondcliff Trail  This route leads you across the magnificent Bond ridge in the remote heart of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. On a good day the stretch across the Bondcliffs and up unto Mt. Bond is sure to induce a mountain high. The northernmost bit over the bald SW summit of Mt. Guyot is pretty good too. Only strong hikers can do this as a day trip.

Franconia Ridge Trail A pick so obvious it needs little elaboration. In addition to the classic (and often crowded) open ridge trek between Little Haystack and Mt. Lafayette, this path includes a little-used traverse through lovely high-elevation forest between Little Haystack and the Liberty Spring Trail.

Welch-Dickey Loop Trail  Biggest bang for the buck in the Whites, with two miles of intermittent open ledge walking on a 4.4-mile loop over a pair of small mountains. One of the most popular of the half-day hikes, with a new expanded parking lot to prove it.

Algonquin Trail The most exciting of several fine routes up Sandwich Dome. Ledge scrambles lift you to a succession of excellent outlooks on the shoulder called Black Mountain, then a pleasant wooded ridge walk leads to the summit.

Baldface Circle/Bicknell Ridge Trails The long, strenuous loop over the barren Baldfaces is one of the great hikes in the Whites, with four miles of open ledges and fabulous views. The Bicknell Ridge Trail serves as a more scenic alternative to the northern link of Baldface Circle Trail, with ledgy outlooks alternating with deep spruce woods.

Moriah Brook Trail  Among the most beautiful valley trails in the mountains, leading five miles up a remote tributary of the Wild River. Gradual grades provide fine leafy walking through hardwood and birch forests, and there are many cascades along the brook.

Zealand Trail  A gentle walk up the peaceful Zealand valley, with attractive woods and a series of scenic beaver meadows and ponds providing views of the surrounding ridges.

Mahoosuc Trail Arguably the most consistently rugged and scenic longer trail in the region, with nearly 11,000 feet of rough-and-tumble elevation gain in 27 miles. The southern section has several gorgeous ponds and plenty of ledgy viewpoints. The northern half features dramatic summits such as Goose Eye Mountain, alpine meadows, the gloomy rock jumble of Mahoosuc Notch, lofty Speck Pond and the range’s high point atop Old Speck Mountain.

 

SECOND TEAM

Carter-Moriah Trail This ridgecrest path has some challenging ups and downs and a great variety of scenery along its 14-mile length. Especially nice are the Pulpit Rock outlook into Carter Notch, Carter Dome and Mt. Hight, the fir woods at Zeta Pass and South Carter, the ledgy areas around Middle and North Carter, the south cliffs of Mt. Moriah, and the ledges on Moriah’s northwest ridge.

Blueberry Ledge Trail The exciting way up Mt. Whiteface, with early views from the lower Blueberry Ledges and rocky scrambles on the upper ridge with inspiring views opening now on the left, now on the right.

Great Gulf Trail This route guides you up the length of the most dramatic alpine valley in the Whites. There are views low down from The Bluff, then a long walk beside the rocky West Branch of the Peabody River brings you past pretty cascades and up to tiny Spaulding Lake, tucked under the walls of the cirque. The grand finale is a steep ascent up the huge headwall with amazing views back down the valley to Mts. Jefferson, Adams and Madison.

Nancy Pond Trail  The scenery doesn’t shout at you like the Presidentials, but this trail has marvelous variety: the 300-foot Nancy Cascades, old-growth spruce forest, dark and mysterious Nancy Pond, wide-open Norcross Pond, and a ledgy viewpoint overlooking the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The less-used west half of the trail eases you down through wild woods into the remote lowlands of the eastern Pemi.

Davis Path This historic 15-mile footway along Montalban Ridge offers a number of superb viewpoints and, in its middle section, miles of quiet walking through remote ridgecrest woods. Over the years this part of the trail has at times been overgrown, adding to its wild aura. Short side jaunts lead to unusual views from Mt. Crawford, Giant Stairs, Mt. Davis and Mt. Isolation. The upper two miles are above treeline on the less-crowded south slopes of Mt. Washington, including the expansive Bigelow Lawn.

Ethan Pond Trail A lowland trail with many scenic attractions, including the spectacular open rocks of Zealand Notch, nearby Thoreau Falls, the North Fork of the Pemigewasset River’s East Branch, unusual boggy spruce forests, and breezy Ethan Pond under the frowning cliffs of Mt. Willey.

Kinsman Ridge Trail Another long ridge trail with gnarly ups and downs and outstanding scenery strung along its 16 miles. The southern section up to and over Mt. Wolf is rugged, wooded and wild. Farther north are the mossy cascades of Eliza Brook, tiny, boggy Harrington Pond, and a breathless ledgy scramble with numerous views up to the open top of South Kinsman. You continue past North Kinsman’s classic view of the Franconia Range, across the roly-poly Cannon Balls, and up over Cannon Mountain with Franconia Notch views from the ledges of its East Peak.

Howker Ridge Trail One of the wildest and least-used major approaches on the Presidentials. It climbs steeply through deep forests, bounces over the several knobs known as the Howks with varied views, then breaks above treeline to climb to Osgood Ridge and Mt. Madison.

Moat Mountain Trail As it traverses the burned-over Moat Range this nine-mile trail passes through unusual red pine forest below South Moat, crosses long stretches of open ledge on South and Middle Moat, dips into mossy spruce groves, scrambles to the open pinnacle of North Moat, then descends to the quiet, hemlock-rich valley of Lucy Brook and the cascades at Diana’s Baths. Also magnificent is the open ledge section on the adjoining Red Ridge Trail.

Dry River Trail  The Dry River runs through one of the longest wilderness valleys in the Whites, and this lightly-traveled trail goes the full length, offering a real feeling of isolation. Highlights include a framed vista up the valley to Mt. Washington, frequent looks at the boulder-choked river, sections of old logging railroad grade, Dry River Falls, a primeval conifer forest on the upper floor of the valley, and great views as you ascend the headwall of Oakes Gulf.

 

THIRD TEAM

Kilkenny Ridge Trail  Relatively few hikers make it out to this far northern sector of the White Mountains. Those who do walk this 20-miler find long stretches of ridge walking through open forests of fir and birch, picturesque Unknown Pond, and good views from the interesting summits of Terrace Mountain, Mt. Cabot, The Horn and Rogers Ledge.

Mount Tripyramid Trail  The smooth slabs of the North Slide (not for the faint of heart) and broken rock and gravel of the South Slide ensure an exciting climb on this classic loop. The tops of both slides provide good views, and between the slides you traverse the three sharp summits of Tripyramid, with more vistas.

Webster Cliff Trail  The section along the top of the cliffs opens view after view of Crawford Notch and the mountains to the west and south. Farther alog, the trail cuts through miles of ridgetop boreal forest, popping out for excellent vistas from Mt. Jackson and Mt. Pierce.

Flat Mountain Pond Trail  This 10.3-mile horseshoe leads through one of the most remote and interesting corners of the Sandwich Range Wilderness. The highlight is the beautiful, ¾ mile long Flat Mountain Pond, surrounded by birch forests. One end of the trail follows an historic railroad grade, the other shadows the pretty Whiteface River.

Blueberry Ridge Trail  This route to Speckled Mountain in the Caribou-Speckled Wilderness passes waterfalls on Bickford Brook, then crosses many open ledges on little Blueberry Mountain and the long, scrubby  Blueberry Ridge. An equally nice route on Speckled is the upper ledgy stretch of the Cold Brook Trail.

Wild River Trail  This mellow trail provides an extended walk up the beautiful Wild River valley, following an old railroad grade and logging roads along the river and into the remote bog country of the upper valley, where you’ll find curious little No-Ketchum Pond.

Tunnel Brook Trail  This local’s favorite follows a gentle route through the sharp notch between Mt. Moosilauke  and Mt. Clough. The scenery is a unique combination of beaver ponds and old landslides.

Six Husbands Trail One of several bodacious trails shooting up out of the Great Gulf. Ladders and hand-over-hand scrambles make for a memorable climb up Jefferson’s Knee, finishing with a flourish on the alpine slopes of Mt. Jefferson.

Inlook Trail  This short, little-known gem scoots up numerous open ledges on a lower Northern Presidential ridge, with views “in” to the giant peaks and “out” to the North Country.

Twinway  A fine high-country route through the Zealand-Twin Mountain country. Lots of enjoyable firs-and-ferns ridge walking and excellent views from Zeacliff, Mt. Guyot’s northeast summit, and South Twin.

Kenduskeag Trail  Its name means “a pleasant walk,” and it delivers with alpine meadows and open ledges across the broad mass of Shelburne Moriah Mountain and more good views from two rocky knobs to the east.

 

HONORABLE MENTION

UNH Trail A perfect half-day loop over little Hedgehog Mountain with needle-carpeted spruce forests and three ledgy viewpoints.

Lincoln Woods/Wilderness Trail Sure, it’s a flat highway, and I’ve walked the lower part more times than I care to count, but it’s a classic route that leads to many adventures in the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The upper section is very scenic along the East Branch as it approaches the Desolation region. The history of the J. E. Henry logging railroad era echoes throughout.

Sabbaday Brook Trail Ambles up through perhaps the prettiest of the Sandwich Range valleys. There’s a long, easy section through the hardwoods along an old logging road, with glimpses of the Fool Killer. Then you curve into the secluded upper valley under the Sleepers and Tripyramid, pass a couple of vistas back down the valley, and end with a sudden steep scramble to the crest of Tripyramid.

Tuckerman Ravine Trail With the exception of Crystal Cascade, it’s wide, rocky and dull up to Hermit Lake, but the rest is magical as it climbs into the cirque, up the headwall, and on to the top of the Northeast’s highest peak. Be prepared for the crowds.

Beaver Brook Trail Probably the most scenic route up Mt. Moosilauke. The long, steep initial climb is softened by continuous cascades. Then it skirts Jobildunc Ravine on the side of Mt. Blue, with several views, and ends with a glorious walk along the open, grassy north ridge.

Chippewa Trail  Red pine and spruce forests give way to ledges, ledges and more ledges on this short, steep route to Black Mountain in the Benton Range.

Air Line  The steep, rough middle section is made up for by the airy, spectacular traverse of the Knife Edge on Durand Ridge with its wide views north and down-looks into King Ravine.

King Ravine Trail An unforgettable route through the jumble of boulders on the floor of this immense glacial cirque, followed by the scramble up the craggy headwall.

Lambert Ridge Trail  The most scenic route up massive Smarts Mountain. The route traverses quartzite ledges along the spine of Lambert Ridge, with distant views south and east and close-ups of the broad summit of Smarts, then heads up into the southernmost boreal forest in the White Mountain region, ending at the summit tower with panoramic views.

Red Rock Trail  Not classically spectacular, but I’ve always liked this wild, lightly-trekked path that threads a long, low ridge in the Caribou-Speckled Wilderness, leading from Speckled Mountain across Durgin, Butters and Red Rock Mountains. An obscure side path accesses a dramatic perch atop Red Rock’s great south cliff.

Shoal Pond Trail  A muddy, spruce-lined path with a wonderful sense of remoteness, deep in the eastern Pemigewasset Wilderness. Beauty spots include the cascade and pool on Shoal Pond Brook and the edge of Shoal Pond, with its watery views of Zealand Notch and Mt. Carrigain. 

Castle Trail  Another superb route on the Northern Presidentials, taking you up the shark-fin Castellated Ridge to Mt. Jefferson. After negotiating the rock towers of The Castles, with views into the chasm of Castle Ravine, you have a long, scenic pull above treeline to the summit.

 

RECOMMENDED SNOWSHOE HIKES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS

KANCAMAGUS HIGHWAY

Franconia Falls 6.6 miles r.t., 300 ft. climb. Easy walk along old railroad grade (Lincoln Woods Trail) and side trail to scenic cascade. Additional option: 1.6 mile r.t., 200 ft. climb to Black Pond.

Greeley Ponds 4.4 miles r.t., 400 ft. climb. Moderate hike on Greeley Ponds Trail to pair of ponds nestled in spectacular notch.

East Ledges of Hedgehog Mtn. 4.0 miles r.t., 1100 ft. climb. Moderate ascent on east branch of UNH Trail to south-facing ledges.

Boulder Loop Trail 2.8 miles r.t., 900 ft. climb. Moderate hike up west branch of loop trail and spur to south-facing clifftop viewpoint.

FRANCONIA NOTCH

Mt. Pemigewasset 3.6 miles r.t., 1150 ft. climb. Steady ascent on Mt. Pemigewasset Trail to clifftop ledges (use caution) with views west, south and east.

Mt. Liberty 8.0 miles r.t., 3200 ft. climb. For advanced snowshoers only. Long, steady climb to rocky 4459-ft. summit with wide views. Use Whitehouse, Liberty Spring & Franconia Ridge Trails. Use caution on summit ledges.

Lonesome Lake 2.8 miles r.t., 1000 ft. climb. Moderate hike up Lonesome Lake Trail to high mountain pond with striking views of Kinsman Mtn. & Franconia Ridge.

Old Bridle Path Outlooks 4.0 miles r.t., 1600 ft. climb. Fairly steep ascent to ledgy outlooks with spectacular close-up of Franconia Ridge.

WATERVILLE VALLEY/SQUAM LAKE AREA

The Scaur 4.0 miles r.t., 700 ft. climb. Mostly easy trip, steep at end, to rocky outlook with views south to mountains around Waterville. Use Livermore Trail, Kettles Path & Scaur Trail.

Dickey Mtn. Ledge 2.4 miles r.t., 1200 ft. climb. Moderate trip up west branch of Welch-Dickey Loop Trail to first outlook ledge atop a great cliff (use caution).

West Rattlesnake 1.8 miles r.t., 400 ft. climb. Easy hike via Old Bridle Path off Rt. 113 to low summit with great view over Squam Lake.

CRAWFORD NOTCH

Mt. Willard 3.2 miles r.t., 900 ft. climb. Moderate climb up Mt. Willard Trail to cliffs with spectacular views of Crawford Notch.

Ethan Pond 6.0 miles r.t., 1800 ft. climb. Solid climb up Ethan Pond Trail to high, isolated pond with mountain views.

Mt. Pierce (Clinton) 6.4 miles r.t., 2400 ft. climb. For experienced snowshoers only. Steady climb up ancient Crawford Path, with short side trip above treeline to this open 4310-ft. Presidential peak. Crampons may be needed at end.

PINKHAM NOTCH

Lowe's Bald Spot 4.4 miles r.t., 850-ft. climb. Easy-graded climb up Old Jackson Road and Madison Gulf Trail to outlook with fine view of Northern Presidentials.

Lost Pond 1.2 miles r.t., 100 ft. climb. Easy beginners trip to pond with view of Mt. Washington.

Carter Notch 7.6 miles r.t., 2000 ft. climb. Full day trek on Nineteen Mile Brook Trail to remote notch with ponds, cliff scenery and AMC hut.